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This microbrew started life in Quebec as "Aphrodisiaque." The name had to be changed for certain markets, most notably the United States, because, hey, alcohol is not supposed to be marketed with what some bureaucrats believe to be the implied promise of sex. (That's ironic given the imagery in Big Beer advertising over the decades, but I digress.) Under any name, this ebony-coloured strong stout, at 6.5-per-cent alcohol, is seductive – at least in the dessert sense. Brewed with cocoa and vanilla, it's a velvety chocolate cake in a glass. Actually, it's better than cake, because the rich, subtle sweetness is perfectly balanced by dry bitterness and refreshing, creamy carbonation. At the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta and in Quebec, where it's still called Aphrodisiaque (dieuduciel.com/en/).

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