For some shoppers, the vintage date on a bottle of wine is like the barnyard diet of a pig that yielded a fine plate of charcuterie - a case of too much information. Who remembers, or even knows, whether it hailed golf balls in Beaujolais in 2007? (Answer: It did.) But there's one year and one place that a wine lover would do well to bear in mind on a visit to the wine shop: 2007 in France's southern Rhône Valley. It was, as Sinatra might have said, a very good year. In fact, it was a great year.
Oxymoronically speaking, it was a perfect storm for great grapes. The growing season was exceptionally dry. And vines love arid, sunny weather, with just enough rain to reduce stress, the better to concentrate flavours in skins and ripen bunches to full maturity.
The southern Rhône is home to numerous subdistricts, or appellations, which prominently appear on labels - Côtes du Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras, Gigondas and Rasteau. You generally won't find grape names on front labels, though some modern-minded producers now helpfully list the ingredients on back labels.
Southern Rhône reds are typically blended from two or more varieties, including, most commonly, grenache, syrah and mourvèdre. Generally full-bodied, the reds caress the palate with flavours of black-skinned fruit, peppercorn, herbs, lavender and licorice. Often the wines suggest the slightest essence of cooked meat, especially as they age. These are buxom, earthy wines, ideal partners for braised or stewed red meats. And they wouldn't be out of place next to a roast chicken.
The whites usually are based on marsanne, roussanne, viognier and a host of other local varieties. Usually medium-bodied, they can exhibit a deliciously oily texture and floral quality. Versatile at the table, the whites make excellent alternatives to chardonnay, especially if you enjoy a nuance of food-friendly bitterness in your wine and want to avoid the often cloying, vanilla-like character of so many chardonnays aged in new barrels.
The parade of 2007s began long ago, but more continue to arrive in Canadian stores. In Ontario, Vintages stores today shine a spotlight on the region with a respectable lineup of limited-inventory, premium offerings. In order of preference, here my favourites.
Pierre Amadieu Romane Machotte Gigondas 2007 ($22.95, product No. 17400). Silky and concentrated, this red is perfectly ripe, with a truckload of dark-skinned fruit, big spice, an herbal undercurrent and chalky tannins. It should age well for up to eight years.
Perrin & Fils Peyre Blanche Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne 2007 ($17.95, No. 650960). Don't let "blanche" in the name mislead you; it's red. Silky with notes of raspberry and cherry underpinned by wild herbs, dry, tea-like tannins and balancing acidity. It should age nicely for five years.
Domaine du Haut des Terres Blanches Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($36.95, No. 177618). The price is higher than my top-ranked wine above, but the premium at least buys you a longer cellaring window. This red should evolve nicely for 10 to 15 years. Velvety, the wine's rich plum- and cherry-like fruit hide its siesta-inducing 15-percent alcohol level.
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($32.95, No. 983650). Lazaret is a favourite in the Canadian market even in so-so years, and this 2007 delivers as expected, with a smooth, dense core of blackberry fruit, nuance of smoke and satisfyingly dry, long finish. Cellaring potential: up to 15 years.
Les Vignerons de Visan Côtes du Rhône-Villages Visan 2007 ($12.95, No. 179234). Unquestionably the big bargain of today's release, this red comes across like a $25 Gigondas, warm, with plenty of herbal character and acidity supporting concentrated dark fruit. It's crafted for current consumption but could cellar well for up to five years.
The only southern Rhône white of the release comes from 2009. (Whites spend less time maturing in the winery, and virtually all the 2007s long ago disappeared from shelves.) Perrin & Fils Reserve Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2009 ($14.95, No. 499509) is nicely priced. Medium-bodied, it shows a core of peach lifted by spice, refreshing acidity and pleasant bitterness on the balanced finish.
The week's domestic pick is Sandhill Small Lots Viognier 2009,($24.95 in Ont., No. 126862). An outstanding viognier from British Columbia, it's fat and rich with flavours of apricot, orange and honey.