Moraine Lake in Banff National Park.ROD CURRIE/The Canadian Press
The question: Is it worth hitting Canada's ski resorts in the off-season?
The answer: The ray-warmed days of summer are long gone while the promise of sparkling snow seems forever distant at resorts at this time of year. And that, for some, makes fall an enticing time to sniff out good-value breaks at swish hotels that might otherwise be out of reach.
Just remember: while nailing the year's best room rates is a shoulder-season plus, you'll likely also find maintenance-shuttered activities, reduced-hour restaurants and mist-blanketed days of grey, relentless rain. The solution? More spa time and visits to resort shops with desperate sidewalk sales.
But there's more to off-season visits than hunkering indoors. Many resorts have beefed-up their autumnal offerings in recent years, adding fall foliage-watching hooks or intriguing festivals to aid their deserted hotels.
At Canada's biggest ski town, Whistler's fall activities run from golf to ziplining, while a break in the clouds will make its forest-flanked bike trails appealling. But the tastiest autumn lure is the 11-day Cornucopia food and drink festival (whistlercornucopia.com), which runs from Nov. 6 to 16.
I found double-occupancy deals at about $100 a night at popular village hotels, such as the Pinnacle and Crystal Lodge. But from $50 more, you can slide into swankier spots, such as the Pan Pacific, Nita Lake Lodge or Fairmont Chateau Whistler.
As with all shoulder-season resort hotels, check individual websites for deals and packages (including breakfast, for example) then phone directly for the best price – there's lots of haggle-room in the fall and you'll find many options for at least 50 per cent below peak-season prices.
Over in Quebec's Mont-Tremblant – where skiing starts Nov. 21 – there are two events to lure you in early: Salomon Classic 5km and 10km runs on Oct. 25 through the copper-coloured autumnal trees, plus a family-friendly weekend of Halloween happenings, including street performers and trick-or-treating.
Visit tremblant.ca for event details and "fall colours offers" on accommodation. I also found – via hotels.com – seasonal specials from $80 at area hotels and B&Bs, including enticing discounts at the popular Mont-Tremblant Residence Inn by Marriott.
Keep in mind that, while outdoor activities from golf to hiking are possible here in fall – Gore-Tex recommended – the resort's Panoramic Gondola is closed until ski season kickoff, a common occurrence at many resorts in the off-season.
Near north-of-Toronto Collingwood, Blue Mountain (bluemountain.ca) is hosting Halloween shenanigans, while its Nov. 1 Shri Fest (shrifest.com) is a three-day yoga and art event for the karmically minded. Since you're also in Apple Pie Country, loosen your belt and plot your arrival route accordingly via applepietrail.ca.
But if you're actively avoiding crowds – it's finally time to finish writing that epic novel, perhaps – consider a fall retreat to a smaller, quieter resort. Haggle for great sleepover deals at B.C.'s Fernie (skifernie.com) or Sun Peaks (sunpeaksresort.com) – or maybe just hit the heart of the Rockies.
In my experience, fall in Banff or Jasper – popular hubs for many area ski slopes – combines rainy days with the creeping chill of winter licking at the air from surrounding peaks. But while the weather is a gamble – wrap up well for early morning photos of wandering wildlife – there are also top events to entice you.
From Nov. 1, the nine-day Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival offers a page-turning array of readings and screenings. And while tickets for Chris Hadfield's Jasper Dark Sky Festival appearance are sold out, it's just one of many options before the event's Oct. 26 conclusion.
But the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge – an idyllic, cabin-lined retreat fringing a tree-encircled lake – has mastered the art of filling its off-season rooms.
Its annual Christmas in November affair (christmasinnovember.com) is a series of two- or three-night packages (from $849 a person, including room, meals and events) crammed with Yuletide craft and cooking presentations. It's also a reminder that the snow – and the skiing – is just around the corner.
Send your travel questions to concierge@globeandmail.com
Your say
- Have you experienced resorts in the Kootenays [B.C.]? Fernie, Kimberley, Panorama – incredible outdoor activities at great value. @ItsChrisElder
- Mont-Tremblant. Lots of activities; the food; the beautiful scenery; and the “Quebec-ness.” @tweetsbycc
- Sun Peaks [B.C.]. Lots of great cycling, spas, restaurants, things for children and decent rates for rooms. @goodlifevan
- Stoneham [Que.]. Great hiking with beautiful fall colours. And it’s only [25 kilometres] from Quebec City where I’d stay at the decadent Auberge Saint-Antoine. @candicebest
- Blue Mountain [Ont.]. Family friendly; great scenery; year-round outdoor activities; great eats and drinks; good accommodations; and budget-friendly. @kathrynanywhere
- Whistler – I’m heading there this weekend. It’s an annual family trip and it’s always gorgeous. Beautiful colours, good value, great family activities and someone else does the cooking. @Luxetravelfam
- Thanksgiving weekend in Whistler. The Turkey Sale is in full swing, which is a good time to relax, eat and find great deals for ski season. But it’s a lot more fun to wait until the snow falls. @Tours_By_Locals
- I would head to Mont-Tremblant – usually a one-night trip from Montreal – for hiking and autumn colours. Great weekend concerts, too. @chibeba
- The fall colours are gorgeous at Sun Peaks right now. Take a stroll then maybe hit the spa – plus room rates are great. @SunPeaksResort
- How about Cornucopia, Whistler’s food and drink festival? It’s 11 amazing days of dinners, tastings, seminars, parties for all budgets and interests. @GeorgeKristine