At just 29, Matt Blondin is a kitchen rock star, with the talent and testosterone to prove it. After stints at some of Toronto's best restaurants, including Rain, Luce, Colborne Lane and Acadia, he now holds the top job at Momofuku Daisho, one of star chef David Chang's acclaimed new eateries in the city. But it's not all flash – behind Blondin's obvious confidence is a steely focus and serious intelligence that Chang must have recognized as soon as he found him. Why else would the New Yorker have granted the Sudbury boy freedom to explore local ingredients and his French-Canadian roots within a high-concept Asian restaurant? In someone else's hands, the results would be fusion confusion, but Blondin works it like a pro, serving Bo Ssam alongside sugar pie with grace, skill and, yes, a generous helping of swagger. If you should be lucky enough to find yourself at Blondin's sixfoot– long dinner table (which he made himself), this is what you might get to eat.