Less widely known than its Spanish counterpart, Portuguese cuisine is having a renaissance. When I was in Lisbon a while back, modern chefs were creating lighter variations of traditional dishes, which in the past tended to be be heavy and quite salty but always contained fresh, local ingredients. This hearty, flavourful pork-and-clam recipe is one of the most popular dishes in the country. Warning: Do not salt this dish until the end, because the natural saltiness of the clams and other ingredients may make it unnecessary.