On a trip to Nova Scotia, I was impressed with the creative force of the chefs, with their dedication to local ingredients and with the sensational recipes they prepared.

Chester-born Michael Howell is a favourite homegrown chef. His restaurant, Tempest in Wolfville, N.S., is one of the best in the province. His fried fish is lightly battered and nicely crispy: Howell uses haddock, the most popular fish in the area.

The sparkling water in his recipe must be as cold as possible to keep the batter light and prevent it from absorbing too much oil. Place in a hot oven for a couple of minutes to reheat.