The first time I met Harald Hermans I couldn't take my eyes off of his strong, calloused hands. The confidence in their movements (not to mention their sheer size) was proof enough of the hours he had put into growing and harvesting the organic vegetables on his farm. He had arrived unannounced that afternoon on the back of my friend Fleur's scooter offering a cooler full of freshly picked goods he wished to share with me. Gradually revealing a bountiful parade of produce, it was the finale that really caught my eye. There, cradled in his giant, worn palm was a handful of the most perfect little shiitake mushrooms I could have ever imagined.

This recipe is born from this meeting with Hermans and dedicated to the hours of hard work he and his family put in each week in order to bring us his wonderful produce.

Homemade ricotta takes a bit of planning and patience, but is totally worth it. Use a digital thermometer, and keep stirring to avoid scorching the milk.

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Katsuobushi is dried, smoked and fermented tuna that is then shaved creating thin smoky strips that appear to dance when placed on top of hot food. They provide a note of depth here, but aren't necessary if you simply prefer to keep things vegetarian.