This savoury babka has a dough with enough structure to stand up to its filling. That filling, by the way, is a heady collection of kimchi, scallions, cheese and bacon. The kimchi brings its trademark funk and scallions a vital freshness, as the melting ooze of cheese rounds out the effects of both. The bacon pairs with a smear of gochujang for an unmistakable, umami-rich baseline.
As an additional draw, this bread transforms into some of the finest toast you could want. While some should be feasted upon warm from the oven, any leftovers are welcomed. Upon reheat, the bread takes on another character. The cheese crisps, the kimchi frizzles and curls, and the bacon sizzles and perks up. Glaze with cultured butter smudged with more gochujang and a pinch of crunchy salt and feast. Or, dress things up with a fried egg and greens.
The loaf is best in a standard or long Pullman loaf pan (13 or 16 inches long, respectively, and four inches wide), which will give a uniform shape and well-developed crust on all sides. However, two 9-by-5-inch tins can be used instead. If plaiting the split dough inspires trepidation, glaze the roll whole and bake as is, for a single-swirl loaf.