Recipe: Coriander cumin chicken in smashed pea sauce

The pairing of avocados and peas has the capacity to instigate debate: Last summer, it was such a hot-button issue that the President of the United States was asked to comment after the New York Times tweeted a link to a years-old recipe for guacamole that combined the fruit with the legume.

The recipe asserted peas brought substance and texture to the dip, which had appeared on the menu at ABC Cocina to raves and was a collaboration between the restaurant's chef de cuisine Ian Coogan and venerated French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Still, a vocal majority was unconvinced, including Barack Obama, who took a hard pass on peas in his guac.

While I'm against peas in guacamole, I'm all for the combination in other applications. To be specific, I find it surprisingly effective in a double-pea spread that has a spot in my current condiment rotation, a product of my want for a sauce that behaved similarly to pesto but without the cheese and not as much oil.

Using the flesh of a small avocado to add body to a herb-and-pea paste results in a spread that is both lush and light. The avocado is a background player, used more for consistency than anything else. The focus is on the sweet peas, the watery freshness of the sprouts and the fragrant grassiness of a handful of herbs. The red chile punctures the spread with random heat and the lemon keeps it zingy.

I use this sauce, thinned with a water, with grilled meats of all kinds. I've also fortified it with labneh, a fresh, Middle Eastern, yogurt cheese, to make a dip. I have thoughts of it alongside battered fish, but it's most often used as a sandwich spread. As a general rule I don't go in for eggs with avocados, but the peas keep the pairing from unctuousness: My go-to lunch is now darkly toasted wholegrain bread, smeared with this sauce and adorned with slices of hard-boiled egg, a garden of sprouts and extra lemon juice. It's exceedingly good.

The spread is also ideal on a lamb burger, as a filling to naan or pita with chickpea fritters, quinoa patties or spice-heavy chicken kebabs, such as these ones.

Chicken thighs have enough fat to take the heat of the grill without drying out, so you can cook them until the edges go deeply golden and are licked with char in places while the meat closest to the skewer stays gratifyingly juicy. If boneless, skinless chicken breasts are your preference, give them a better chance at succulence by swathing the pieces in buttermilk or yogurt thinned with milk. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes or so. Pat the chunks dry before coating in the spices, then cook as directed.

Notes:

Since the spread uses raw peas, their freshness is of paramount importance. If not buying sweet, young peas in their pods, go for frozen. If they seem starchy, blanch them for a minute in boiling water. And yes, shelling 1 cup of peas will take time but it's worth the effort.

Ground sumac has lemony twang, and can be found at some grocery stores, bulk stores and Middle Eastern shops.

The avocado in the sauce can be replaced by well-stirred tahini – about 2 tablespoons is a good place to start, and go from there.

The chicken can also be served as an appetizer, with smaller skewers and 1 to 2 pieces of chicken a serving. Offer the sauce alongside.