Living in Palm Springs over the worst of the winter was a perfect treat this year. And being surrounded with grapefruit, orange and lemon trees in our garden certainly inspired my cooking. I used citrus in everything and still we could not put a dent in the amount of fruit we had harvested (and as we left, the trees were already reblooming). We grilled lemons, oranges and grapefruit to garnish barbecued meats, made exotic juices and cocktails, and added lemon or orange curd to most desserts. My go-to preparation was a salsa made with roasted lemons. At first, I used uncooked ones, which rendered the mixture too bitter. Roasting the lemons, however, brought out more flavour and lessened the bitterness. The version below is superb with scallops, but it is also a super-versatile add-on that can be stirred into risotto or pasta, or used as a marinade for veal chops, chicken and fish (just add more oil).