Excerpted from The Flavour Principle © 2013 by Lucy Waverman and Beppi Crosariol. Published by HarperCollins Publishers Ltd. All rights reserved.

The French call that earthy taste goût de terroir. The term is often trotted out in passionate exchanges about wine, where it is code for such nuances as stone, chalk, graphite and damp soil. But it also aptly describes the humble, rooty, soil-infused quality of fresh Brussels sprouts.