The San Francisco dining scene, ever dynamic, has a new raft of restaurants to savour. One of the edgiest, State Bird Provisions, has become a darling of both foodies and critics. In addition to a palate-challenging menu bursting with fresh, focused flavours, it has taken to sending interesting small dishes around the restaurant on dim sum trolleys. The concept has proven so popular that it is hard to get reservations, although the restaurant does not book the counter seats, which can be had on a first-come, first-served basis.

This sensual dish of rare tuna mixed with avocado and a scented dressing topped with nori chips is a highlight of State Bird's menu. The chips are better than any potato chips you will ever have. Black garlic is fermented garlic that can be found in Asian grocery stores, particularly Korean ones. (Roasted garlic is the best substitute.) The tuna is cooked slowly in oil as if making a confit.