This recipe is inspired by a dinner I enjoyed at Charlie Palmer's restaurant, Burritt Room + Tavern, in San Francisco. Based on the old style of meat-and-drink-heavy establishments that dotted San Fran in another era, it serves impressive cocktails and fun, trendy food. This take on the pasta I ate there is a similar – but much more sophisticated – version of macaroni and cheese. It's topped with crunchy bread crumbs and chili oil (you can make your own or buy the Italian version) that balances all the flavours. The sauce can be made ahead of time and reheated, but you might have to add a little extra cream if it's too thick.