Like a low-cut dress or loosely buttoned disco shirt, this reveals much up front. Which is to say oodles of in-your-face dark chocolate, dried cherry, syrupy cassis and smooth vanilla. But there is structured tailoring and gravitas to this Sonoma County red in the form of lively spice, cheerful mint and toasty oak. A very fine steak wine. Various prices in Alberta, $19.99 in Manitoba, $24.95 in Quebec, $25.99 in Newfoundland.