This Tuscan red derives its name from governare, an Italian term for the addition of slightly raisined grapes to the first wine of the harvest. That technique triggers a second fermentation that boosts body and softens texture. Made from Tuscany's signature sangiovese grape, San Leonino's fine 2013 is medium-bodied, with a gently chalky texture and nuances of cherry liqueur and smoky cedar. Versatile at the table, it would be particularly lovely with a saucy veal sandwich or eggplant parmesan.