The name riffs on the Chicago flag, with its four stars (between two horizontal blue stripes), signifying memorable events in the city's history. (One such event wasn't so pleasant – the great fire of 1871, but never mind.) Goose Island is a proud offspring of that fine metropolis. It started as a brewpub in 1988 and is now a property of international giant Anheuser-Busch InBev.

The good beer keeps on a-coming. This golden, 5.1-per-cent-alcohol bevvy pours with a thick, lingering head and is much more serious than most products that carry the word pilsner today. True to the traditional meaning of that word, it's properly bitter. Medium-bodied and creamy, it also offers up delectable stone-fruit, hoppy citrus and bready notes, like a peach-and-grapefruit sandwich. Available at the above price in Ontario, 15.99/six-pack of 473-ml cans in British Columbia, $15.94/six-pack of 341-ml bottles in Saskatchewan, $14.08/six-pack of 341-ml bottles in Manitoba, $3.90/473-ml can in Prince Edward Island, $3.75/473-ml can in Nova Scotia, $4.15/473-ml can in Newfoundland.