What affordable wines would you suggest for a chili-night fundraiser?

The question

Can you suggest (affordable) choices for a busy chili night featuring three types: chicken, beef and black-bean chili? It's a small fundraising affair for our hospital department.

The answer

You signed your correspondence with an MD's title (removed for anonymity's sake) and I am stoked to see that even health-care providers can enjoy sinfully fatty stew (in moderation, of course) without fearing instant cardiac arrest.

In my experience, good chili is more flexible, beverage-wise, than might first appear. Beer is the go-to accompaniment in much of North America, where chili appreciation is as much of a working-glass badge as a Teamsters crest. If you must have beer, and I would never quarrel with that, try a dark porter or stout. The roasted chocolatey goodness of the brew meets the hearty bowl head on, whether you're dealing with chicken, beef or the vegetarian black-bean variety.

But I suspect that red wine is your game plan. One of my top choices would be full-bodied, jammy red zinfandel. The wine's suggestive sweetness tames whatever spice level you throw at it. Ravenswood, Kunde and Seghesio are dependable California brands. Australian shiraz is a fine alternative. I've also had good experience with baco noir, a Niagara strong suit (Henry of Pelham is a leader). Italian ripasso, similarly jammy, is a good offbeat choice.

The Flavour Principle, co-written by Beppi Crosariol and Globe food columnist Lucy Waverman, recently took home top prize for best general English cookbook at the Taste Canada Food Writing Awards.

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