What are Tokyo’s best spots for amazing sushi?

I regularly ate my body weight in sushi when I lived in Tokyo, varying my diet only when the yakitori (grilled chicken) stands beckoned after a wanton evening of Sapporos. But since I haven't visited for a while, I tapped some local experts for the lowdown on where to go.

"Start with Ginza Kyubey," says journalist Tim Hornyak. "I love the detail-oriented service, exquisite nigiri sushi and reasonably priced lunchtime omakase [multidish chef's selection]."

Pointing budget travellers to reliable chains Genki Sushi and Umegaoka Sushi no Midori, Hornyak's rule of thumb is to follow the locals. "Look for weekday lunch deals but get there before the office workers," he advises, adding a hangout near his home to his recommendations.

"With baseball on the TV and photos of sumo great Hakuho on the walls, Irifune is an authentic neighbourhood eatery in decidedly unhip Okusawa. Try the ootoro topped with a smidgeon of garlic sauce – your taste buds might believe the tuna has been transfigured into Kobe beef!"

Which raises the issue of locating these sushi-ya (sushi shop) gems in Tokyo's confusing street system. "Addresses are basically concentric instead of linear, going from the ward to the district to the block and then the building number and unit. Don't try cracking the code – just use Google Maps," he says.

Food guide and sake consultant Rebekah Wilson-Lye agrees, adding "you should allow plenty of travel time and arrive five minutes early – that's 'on time' in Japan." Customizing tours for visiting gastronomes, her top-notch suggestions include three eateries in upscale Ginza.

At Harutaka, a sparkling menu includes an octopus appetizer that's "massaged and braised until deliciously tender." Alternatively, savour lunch and a "very good sake list" at Iwa. Or how about "smoked katsuo, abalone liver sauce and a tuna trio that pairs perfectly with the chef's red vinegar shari [rice]" at Yoshitake?

But where should you head for the perfect sushi and sake combo? "Sushi Sho [in Shinjuku] has a cult-like following. The omakase has an impressive 35 dishes and since the sushi is smaller you can drink heartily without getting too full."

Visitors should respect local etiquette, too. Wilson-Lye and Hornyak agree excessive food photographing is a no-no in most eateries and warn against loudly discussing other chefs and restaurants.

"Seasonal fish is a great benefit of living here, from the delicate blush of the first spring bonito to the rich, unctuous flavour of winter yellowtail. Tourists love the bluefin tuna but most locals look forward to the hikarimono – shimmering, blue-backed fish that thrive in regional waters," Wilson-Lye says.

You'll likely spot these at the cacophonous Tsukiji Fish Market. Both Hornyak and Wilson-Lye warn of ubiquitous crowds and some overrated restaurants in this area. But with hundreds of wholesalers hawking everything aquatic, it's a pilgrimage spot for many foodies.

Sachiko Motohashi runs popular Tsukiji tours. And while her market dining recommendations include Okame, Iwasazushi and Daiwa Sushi, she agrees that queues – especially at the last one – are common. Her half-day tour, though, sidesteps the lines.

"We stroll around the inner and outer market and we also visit a restaurant," Motohashi says, explaining that participants take hands-on lessons with a sushi master who imparts some of his meticulous culinary artistry.

It's not the only way to immerse yourself in sushi in Japan. Hornyak mentions the small Shimizu Sushi Museum southwest of Tokyo, adding that you can also buy detailed restaurant-style plastic food models in the Kappabashi shopping street near Asakusa.

Choosing between Tokyo's estimated 6,000 sushi joints can be overwhelming, but Hornyak suggests visitors be adventurous and dive right in. "Try unheralded sushi shops, especially ones run by men in their 70s. And ask your hotel to reserve at better restaurants, which can be jam-packed on weekends."

OUR READERS WRITE

Go to Uobei near Shibuya station – you order by touchscreen and the sushi arrives by 'bullet tray.' It's awesome!@LisaKadane

Tsutomu Oba was a former chef at Kyubey (one of Tokyo's top sushi restaurants). He is now doing fab things at Sushi Kokoro. @boy_eatsworld

Kyubei. It's phenomenal. Also, anywhere in the Tsukiji Fish Market. There is no bad sushi in Tokyo. @k_kassam

The Tsukiji Fish Market is where many tourists go to get reasonable and very fresh sushi. Prices elsewhere can get crazy. Honestly, though, anywhere that doesn't do ¥100 a plate conveyor belt sushi will be way better than in Canada. Check out Tsukiji Edogin. It's close to Tsukiji and foreigner friendly – somewhat touristy but not scary to enter. @perrinl

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