Poplar Grove Merlot 2006, BC VQA, Okanagan Valley, $34.99

Who can forget Miles in the comedy Sideways? "If anyone orders merlot, I'm leaving." Before the New World made it a standalone varietal, merlot was a bit player added to Bordeaux blends. Many poorly made California versions brought scorn to the name, but the grape remains a classic, producing smooth, easy drinking wines. Poplar Grove fulfils that potential in its complex '06 vintage: a pure merlot with mocha aromas, blackberry flavours and a touch of spice. It pairs beautifully with grilled beef and lamb, mushrooms, vegetable lasagna … even salmon and prawns. Decant for 20 minutes before serving. Available at private wine shops.

Kasey Wilson is food editor of Wine Access magazine and editor of Best Places Vancouver.