The process of pulling energy out of a battery pack and to a lesser extent, putting it back in generates an abundance of heat. Dealing with this heat by way of a liquid cooling system has become the norm. This coolant, along with gearbox oil shows that electric vehicles (EV) do actually require periodic fluid maintenance, although it is minimal.
Along with repairs detailed in parts one and two, charge ports, on board; on-board chargers and inverters can be problematic for EVs. For example, as your cellphone ages, getting it to connect and charge without having to hold the cable at a funky angle can lead you to replacing the cable, but sometimes it’s the port on the phone and a replacement phone is the only solution. The same goes for the charge port on an EV. Regular wear and tear from day-to-day connections along with it not being completely isolated from the elements allows for dirt and moisture to get in and soil the contact points. Regular cleaning and servicing is required for this port as any kind of connection problems will lead to elevated electrical resistance. This will account for extended charging periods and times when it won’t charge. Replacing the port is required when problems persist, which can be a costly, unexpected expense.
How EV maintenance differs, part one: Regenerative braking can cause corrosion to build
How EV maintenance differs, part two: Increased weight, torque is a recipe for faster wear
So is an EV cheaper to maintain? As an auto repair shop owner, I look at my yearly sales and group all the tasks we perform into three sales categories – maintenance, repairs and tires. Items such as fluid replacement and brake servicing are maintenance. From my research and consultation with a Tesla service adviser, dollars spent on EV maintenance items are typically much lower than a gas car. Replacement of suspension components, brakes and charge ports, electronics paid out of the owner’s pocket are classified as repairs. Gas-powered vehicles would appear to be cheaper in this category. When it comes to tires, the gas car is cheaper.
But it is not quite that simple. As I am using Tesla as my main source of information, it must be noted they are commonly driven harder than an EV such as a Nissan Leaf. There is often a different type of driver behind the wheel, with the Leaf-style vehicle owner frequently sporting a delicate, non-aggressive driving style, trying to squeeze every kilometre out of a charge. Just like in a gas vehicle, aggressive driving significantly affects fuel consumption and subsequent repairs.
The Tesla service adviser I have relied on for my information reports that on the models S and X he regularly sees, yearly expenses average between $2,000-$3,000, with model 3′s averaging $1,000-$2,000. Before the EV hater jumps to testify that Tesla model S and X’s are super expensive to maintain, one must first recognize that both the models S and X cater to a specific upscale market, similar to large European Sport Sedans. It’s a close call, but when you add in the Tesla dealer hourly rate, which is notably higher, their repair bills climb that much quicker. The extra hourly charges make the upscale model EVs slightly more costly to repair than their gas-powered counterparts from what I have observed.
Generally, though, it would appear that the average EV owner with average driving habits will see approximately the same yearly combined costs as the ICE vehicle once both vehicles are out of warranty.
Where it gets interesting is when you consider those EV drivers who focus on their driving style with a mission to achieve maximum distance per charge. They easily win the cost-per-year competition, usually by a notable margin.
One last thought. Keep in mind that mainstream EVs are in their infancy and manufacturers are deciphering and solving the more costly problems. In ten years, I imagine the annual costs will come down significantly. Add to that the ever-increasing price of fuel and the decision is becoming easier to make.
Your automotive questions answered
Salut Lou.
My car problem has its ups and downs, it’s a 2018 Mazda CX-5. Two weeks after I installed a new battery, the power windows developed problems. The driver’s door auto up and down works perfectly, but none of the other three windows work from the driver’s door. The lockout button is not depressed. If you try to use the windows from their respective door buttons each window needs three separate presses for down and three for up, as if there are built-in stops. I tried the re-initialization procedure in the manual and online to no avail. I took it to the dealer and had to pick it up after hours. The work sheet confirmed “buttons not working. There’s a wire entering the door from the dash. Must return vehicle to where wire was installed.” They charged $133 for confirmation of the problem. I left a detailed letter at drop off, the dealer ignored the fact that it started after a battery replacement, and that the wire into the door was from a speaker upgrade done two years prior to the problem. I called the service manager who suggested I may have put the battery in wrong (I have rebuilt many a British sports car so that suggestion didn’t hold water). The dealer offered to keep troubleshooting at $133 per hour. Sorry for the long question: I’m hoping you may have a suggestion. I did the speaker upgrade myself. Thanks.
F R Spicer
I think that if the problem started immediately after the battery was installed then it would be related, however two weeks suggests to me that they are not connected.
I’m sorry, but I’m going to have to agree with the dealer on this one. The vehicle must be returned to stock before cost-effective troubleshooting can be completed. Unlike your old British sports cars, your Mazda features a Controller Area Network (CAN) digital bus network, which is sensitive. Any kind of electrical disturbance present on this network will wreak havoc throughout the vehicle. Merely laying an extra wire beside a CAN bus wire, which is right beside your added speaker wiring, may be all it takes to throw things amok. And honestly, the wires may have moved or shifted in the two years since your installation.
I wish my answer was different, but if your vehicle had just arrived for the same repair at my shop, I would first perform the basic window relearn procedures and preliminary checks as the dealer has done. I would then be looking at that added door wiring and using that as my starting point.
Lou,
We are the original owners of a 2015 Honda Odyssey. In the fall of 2019, with about 85,000 kilometres on the van, the brakes developed a significant shudder. I did a full brake replacement – new pads and rotors, in front and in back. The parts were “white box”, as the dealer was quoting an amount equal to a mortgage payment for OEMs. That solved the problem, until earlier this summer when it returned with a vengeance at around 130,000 kilometres. Looking at the forums, it seems this is a common occurrence for this vehicle. What is the best way to address this? I know brakes wear, but less than 90,000 kilometres on OEMs is disappointing, and I can’t even tell you how much more disappointing the white box parts were. Is there a combination of aftermarket pads and rotors I could specifically request, which would give me several years of faithful service, without breaking the bank?
Thank you.
John Z, London, Ontario
John, I believe you need a bit of relevant information here. 90,000 kilometres is a mileage that most dream of achieving – 60-70,000 kilometres is average.
As to why this is happening, brake components are unsprung weight signifying that the suspension is not carrying them. Every time you hit a bump in the road, the brake components and tire travels upward. The suspension spring then has to push it back down so that the tire maintains contact with the road. Larger brakes are superior at dispersing heat and stopping the vehicle, however larger brake components also result in suspension components that have to be larger. Before you know it, we have regressed 40 years to driving your dad’s full size, land yacht Caprice Classic. It had enormous brakes and enormous springs and drove like a whale on wheels. No manufactures want to produce a vehicle with that kind of driving experience any more and brake components are kept as light as possible. Unfortunately, these smaller, lighter brake components lead to the overheating and shudders as you and others are experiencing.
The you-get-what-you-pay-for cliché applies to white box parts, there is no cheap magic combination. Go for original equipment brake manufacturers parts made by companies such as Akebono for best results that are indeed cheaper than dealer, but still far more than a white box part.
Lou Trottier is owner-operator of All About Imports in Mississauga. Have a question about maintenance and repair? E-mail globedrive@globeandmail.com, placing “Lou’s Garage” in the subject line.
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