Of all the standard-issue, non-vintage Champagnes currently circulating from the big brands, this gem deserves special consideration if what you care about is the liquid versus the label. Rich and with impressive depth, this multiyear blend displays mature characters suggesting a substantial contribution from well-cellared older-vintage wines. Indeed, 40 per cent of the blend is made up of reserve wines, some more than a decade old. Expect considerable yeasty-toasty depth along with the primary berry-and-citrus fruit. Available in British Columbia at the above price, various prices in Alberta, $69.95 in Manitoba, $58.50 in Quebec.