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Is more of a good thing better? Many microbreweries seem to think so, at least where bitterness is concerned. Hence the current arms race in heavily hopped beer, with such designations as twice-hopped and triple-hopped. That's the significance of "twice" in this name. A brand extension to Muskoka's fine, and deliciously bitter, Mad Tom India Pale Ale, this comes with double the pleasure (or pain if you happen to be a habitu├ęs of, say, Corona or Bud Light). But Muskoka, an excellent producer, shows method in its madness. The copper-amber brew balances all that extra hop content with ample, almost sweet tropical and fruit and toffee. The texture is rich and creamy, too, which makes for a friendly impression. It's not just Mad Tom with a vendetta; it's another beer altogether, and a very good one. If you let the flavours linger long enough before taking another sip, you'll notice the hops rise up on the finish with a bracing, pine-like essence and more citrus. Remarkably, there's enough fruity flavour and complexity here to fully disguise the formidable 8.4-per-cent alcohol, and that's a telltale mark of a well-crafted brew.

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