Why Dubai International is a favourite for layovers (hint: the largest first-class lounge in the world)

With passenger traffic rates that have nearly doubled this decade – soaring to a projected 89 million in 2017 from 47 million in 2010 – Dubai International (DXB) is the third busiest airport in the world.

Served by 90 airlines that fly to more than 240 destinations (Emirates has three direct flights a week between Dubai and Toronto in each direction) on every continent but Antarctica and positioned at the gateway between Europe and Asia, it's a popular hub for travellers connecting between east and west.

Located less than five kilometres from the city with numerous transportation options for getting in and out, DXB is also well-positioned for exploring if you have a longer layover. With a reported $42-billion in development projects currently under way in the lead up to Expo 2020, for which Dubai is host, the city is only going to get more fantastical. But for now, many of Dubai's biggest marvels – from the world's tallest building to an indoor ski slope that's covered in real snow year-round – are all within reach if you have the time.

Getting oriented

Named Favourite Airport for Layovers at the Conde Nast Traveller Readers' Choice Awards Middle East in December, the ever-expanding DXB airport sprawls across 7,200 acres – for remote stands, it can take more than 20 minutes by bus to get to the terminal. If you want to maximize your time in this behemoth, it's wise to get oriented in advance.

DXB consists of three terminals: Terminal 1 serves all international airlines apart from Emirates and Qantas; Terminal 2 serves regional and low-cost airlines; and Terminal 3 – the largest airport terminal in the world and the only one with a concourse specifically designed for Airbus A380 super-jumbo jets – is dedicated to Emirates and Qantas flights only. It takes about 20 minutes to walk from Terminal 1 to 3 (Terminal 2 is not accessible by foot), but the airport offers free shuttle buses. Terminals 1 and 3 are also linked by the Dubai Metro, located outside the airport.

If you have three hours

Navigating an airport this size can eat up a huge chunk of your layover time. But if you have a few hours to kill, there's no better airport to do it. With room for more than 2,550 passengers and running nearly the length of Terminal 3, the Emirates business class lounge is a worthy upgrade, even if you are flying economy; although once accessible only to business and first-class passengers or silver- and gold-tier Emirates frequent flyers, in 2017, the airline introduced paid access for all Emirates Skywards members (sign up for free before your flight on the Emirates website).

The $100 (U.S.) entry fee gets you access to a free-flowing Moet & Chandon champagne bar (with champagne-friendly bites and four different kinds of bubbles on pour), juice bar and healthy food hub, several vast buffets, as well as shower and nap rooms, children's play area, prayer room and, for a fee, access to a spa. Another $100 gets you into the first-class lounge, the largest in the world, with additional perks that include a complementary 15-minute spa treatment, full-service restaurant, cigar lounge and wine cellar.

But you don't have to be flying premium or pony up a lounge fee to catch your next flight well-rested, well-fed and well-shopped. Terminals 1 and 3 each offer free shower facilities (between C18 and C22 in Terminal 1, and between B13 and B19, and A1 and A24 in Terminal 3) and by-the-hour private sleep pod options, at SnoozeCubes and Sleep'n'fly in Terminals 1 and 3, respectively.

As you might imagine, dining options are broad and range from the Emirates-based chain Shawarmanji to Le Pain Quotidien and British chain Giraffe. There's also extensive duty-free shopping and, in Terminal 3, two indoor gardens and a children's play area.

Insider tip

"If you don't have time to get food before rushing to your gate, the new DeliverooDXB service (available via the airport's WiFi landing page or Deliveroo app) will deliver food right to your gate within a few minutes of your order," said Areej Sharif, a Canadian who has been living in Dubai for 13 years.

If you have six hours

With trains every 10 minutes between the airport and various stops in the city centre, the driverless Dubai Metro is a hassle-free way to get to some of the city's biggest attractions. It's a 25-minute ride to Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall station, home to both the tallest building in the world and the most gigantic mega-mall. The trip costs five United Arab Emirates dirhams (AED) ($1.75 Canadian).

At 828 metres, the Burj Khalifa is the tallest building in the world – but it only takes about a minute for the high-speed elevators to zip up to the lower observation deck on the 124th level. Getting there in a rush, however, will cost you – to the tune of 300 AED for immediate entry ($105), compared with 125 AED ($44) for an advance booking during non-prime hours (i.e. not sunset). Although the ride is quick, expect queuing even with a reservation – you'll need about an hour and a half to get up top and take in the view and even more for the At the Top SKY experience, which, in addition to visits to the 124th- and 125th-floor observation levels, also includes a tour and trip up to the 148th-floor outdoor observation deck – the highest of its kind in the world – and refreshments at the Burj Khalifa SKY lounge. You'll have to navigate the 1.1-million-square-metre Dubai Mall to access the tower, although there's certainly more than enough ground to cover here on its own. From an aquarium and underwater zoo with 33,000 sea creatures to 200 restaurants, 1,200 shops and Instagram-worthy art installations, the mall is equal parts retail complex and sheer spectacle.

Or, if you're missing the snow already, consider heading to the Mall of the Emirates, home to an 85-metre indoor mountain and 22,500- square-metre ski area.

If you have 12 hours

Once you've experienced Dubai's over-the-top, futuristic attractions, a visit to the city's historic district will give you an appreciation for just how remarkable the sky-high development actually is. If you're not in a rush, it's possible to get from Burj Khalifa to Dubai's oldest neighbourhood, the Al Fahidi Historic District, by connecting ferries. Although the ferry is a pleasant way to get around, note that service is irregular and can take more than an hour. An Uber, meanwhile, will get you there from downtown in about 15 minutes.

Dating back only to the 19 th century – barely a blip by Middle Eastern standards – the district defies all preconceived notions about the city, with its labyrinth of narrow streets and old souk, full of textiles, footwear and clothing. The spice, gold and perfume souks, meanwhile, are a quick abra (water taxi) ride away, just across the Dubai Creek, in Deira. Before you head back to the airport, stop into the Arabian Tea House – the locals know it by its former name, Basta Art Café – for Emirati and Middle Eastern dishes and a selection of more than 100 types of teas, set inside the quiet, leafy courtyard of a home that once belonged to a wealthy pearl merchant.