Suggesting wine picks for the new year used to centre on bargains. What were the best value wines on the market to enjoy as consumers braced for their credit card statements to arrive?
Today’s column is a choose your own adventure. Whether you’re January is dutifully Dry or permissibly Damp, if you’re monitoring your consumption of alcohol or looking to drink less but better quality, you’re on the hunt for different recommendations.
My response is to share nine different selections that have impressed. There are some classically made red wines from Italy and France, including a terrific value Bordeaux that’s just been released in Ontario, to consider. A surprisingly complex Canadian whisky and rich and rewarding sweet vermouth have been singled out for those looking for flavourful spirits.
Finally, three non-alcoholic selections are featured for those looking for different options. The Juicy IPA and Bubbly Rosé from Gruvi and HP Juniper Classic Non-Alcoholic Gin & Tonic are appealing alternatives that stand out from the growing number of zero-proof selections available.
Canadian Club Classic 15-Year-Old Sherry Cask (Canada), $89.95
The first release in Canadian Club’s new Invitation Series, the 15-year-old Sherry Cask whisky is an elevated model of its traditional 12-year-old blend. Three additional years of aging and time spent finishing in Oloroso Sherry casks help to increase the complexity with richer nutty and dried fruit aromas, and flavours that complement the usual toffee and vanilla Canadian Club notes. Best enjoyed neat or on the rocks. Available at the above price in Ontario, $75.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $79.99 in Manitoba, $89.79 in New Brunswick, $89.99 in Prince Edward Island.
Château Joinin 2020 (France), $13.95
This attractive merlot-based blend from Bordeaux is produced by the same owners as Château Pipeau. The flavour suggests an appetizing mix of blackberry with savoury and cedar notes. There’s nice concentration and vitality for the price, with some drying tannins on the finish. Best enjoyed with a meal. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.
Château Pipeau Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2019 (France), $45.95
A strong vintage in Saint-Émilion sees Château Pipeau deliver an expressive and enjoyable red in 2019. Produced with merlot, with small additions of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, this makes the most of a ripe core of berry flavours and harmonious character. This is approachable now but has the structure and freshness to age. Drink now to 2031. Available in Ontario.
Cocchi Dopo Teatro Amaro Vermouth (Italy), $37.95
Dopo Teatro, meaning “after theatre,” references the practice in Piedmont of enjoying a nightcap of chilled vermouth served with lemon zest after an evening out. This deliciously sweet vermouth is made from a red wine base that contributes to a rich character that’s balanced with bitter wormwood and other botanicals. It’s enjoyable as prescribed, as a digestive, served over ice, garnished with a long wide piece of lemon zest that is more peel than pith. It’s also makes for a flavourful Americano (one part vermouth, one part Campari and two parts soda water) or Boulevardier (equal parts vermouth, rye whisky and Campari). Store the open bottle in the refrigerator and drink within a month for best enjoyment. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $50 in Manitoba, $35.50 in Quebec.
Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2018 (Italy), $59.95
A cooler growing season is credited with producing more classic styles of Brunello in 2018 like this well-structured and balanced sangiovese. The character is different from the wines produced in the hotter years of 2017 and 2019-2022. Coming from one of the largest organic vineyards in Tuscany, Col d’Orcia displays satisfying fruit and fragrance in its youth, with tannins that will support development in bottle over time. Drink now to 2040. Available at the above price in Ontario, $69.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Gruvi Alcohol-Free Bubbly Rosé (United States), $14.99 (4 x 275 ml)
Created by Canadian siblings Niki and Anika Sawni, Gruvi specializes in producing non-alcoholic beer and wine. The Bubbly Rosé is made in a crowd-pleasing style, with a mix of sweeter berry and apple flavours. The 13 g/L residual sweetness might strike some as sweet (6 g/L is when most people start to perceive sweetness). Serve over ice or with club soda to make an enjoyable wine spritzer. Kosher. Vegan-friendly. Drink now. Available at the above price, well.ca. Various prices at grocery chains and specialty shops in Canada. Check getgruvi.com for store locations.
Gruvi Juicy IPA (United States), $12.99 (6 x 355 ml)
A limited release, Juicy IPA offers a mix of tropical fruit and grassy flavours as part of its refreshing character. It’s a style that will appeal to drinkers looking for a non-alcoholic beer (less than 0.5 abv) with more personality. Vegan-friendly. Available at the above price, well.ca. Various prices at grocery chains and specialty shops in Canada. Check getgruvi.ca for store locations.
HP Juniper Classic Non-Alcoholic Gin & Tonic (Canada), $29.50 (6 x 355 ml)
Made in Quebec, this refreshing, ready-to-drink, alcohol-free mocktail features pleasing juniper, citrus and cucumber notes with a bitter tonic finish. Made with natural cane sugar, this avoids the lingering aspartame aftertaste common in many ready-to drink-beverages. Vegan-friendly. Available at the above price via soberlicious.ca, $18.50 for 4 x 355 ml, designateddrinks.ca.
La Nerthe Les Cassagnes Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2020 (France), $25.95
Produced with grapes grown at Domaine de la Renjarde, an organic estate near Orange in southeastern France, Les Cassagnes is produced by notable Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer Château La Nerthe. A blend of organically grown grenache, syrah and mourvedre, this shows ripe cherry and blueberry notes with herbal accents. Made in a crowd-pleasing style, this is nicely integrated and promises to continue to develop. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Christopher Waters