If you were a regular client at certain men's barbershops in the 1970s, the three-key logo on this wine label may appear familiar. It's the trademark of Penthouse magazine, the long-time – and more photographically explicit – competitor to Playboy. The print edition and its centrefold are history now, but the logo has been licensed (for some bizarre reason) by this winery. The only dirt you'll find in this red, thankfully, is metaphorical – a soupçon of earthy mushroom playing against an otherwise jammy profile in this respectable and well-priced pinot noir from Australia's Adelaide Hills. Decent pinot character for the money. Available in Ontario.