Lake Sonoma in California is owned by Tony Stewart, a member of the family that founded and runs the estimable Quails' Gate in British Columbia's Okanagan Valley. Makes perfect sense; there's a similarity of styles between the Golden State and British Columbia's southern Okanagan. This red zinfandel strikes a harmonious chord. Full-bodied but neither syrupy nor sweet, it's smooth, with soft tannins and jammy fruit backed by subtle notes of white pepper, licorice, cedar and bright acidity. Lovely for duck, pork tenderloin or for sipping all on its own.