Watch any of those old Humphrey Bogart movies and there's an immediate tinge of envy: That guy wore a trench coat well.
Whether as Philip Marlowe in The Big Sleep or Sam Spade in The Maltese Falcon, Bogie carried it off with hardboiled panache. Since then, the iconic garment has been the go-to coat of secret agents, superheroes and reporters who drank their scotch neat.
"There's romance to wearing a trench coat," says David Mullen, a rising New York men's wear designer recently profiled in GQ.
Asked what every man should own, Mullen was quick to name the khaki trench. "It's pretty versatile; you can dress it up or down," he says. "It goes with everything."
I agree fully. I look forward to spring just to bust out my own khaki trench. On Saturdays, I like to rock it with jeans and a tee shirt. (It's important to leave it open; nothing ruins the casual vibe like being literally buttoned up.)
On Monday, if I had an office to go to, I could wear my trench with my best suit to work. Later on, I'd wear it with a tux to a black-tie event.
Finding a trench coat that fits your style won't be difficult.
This spring, Banana Republic, Burberry, DKNY and J. Crew are just a few of the labels carrying updated trenches, with a slimmer silhouette than the traditional Bogie version. They come in shades of cream or grey or even blue. (Black is verboten, unless you want to look like a creepy member of the trench coat mafia.)
For those wanting an even more modern feel, there are short versions that reach mid-thigh.
"The trench coat has been around long enough to be classified as a classic statement," says Nick Foulkes, author of The Trench Book, a history of the garment.
Since it was invented by Thomas Burberry for British soldiers during the First World War, the basic structure of the coat has remained unchanged, which is good news for men.
"Because of its architecture, most men look very good in a trench coat," says Foulkes. "It's a very flattering garment."
Take a tip from Justin Timberlake, however, and make sure it's well fitted, not baggy or billowy. "You don't want to look like Inspector Gadget," he recently told GQ.
Speaking of Inspector Gadget, if you wear a trench, chances are you'll receive some ribbing. As someone who writes for newspapers, I've been told I should pair my coat with a fedora with a Press card in the band.
And I have to admit that once or twice, with both hands in its pockets, I have felt the urge to shoot both arms out to the side in the classic flasher pose.
Indeed, if you want to avoid stares, never wear a trench with shorts.
Trench tips
While the trench is incredibly versatile, there are a few things to keep in mind.
One, never, ever wear it with a backpack. Rarely have "classic statement" and "backpack" meshed well. Go instead for a sleek, modern messenger bag or a soft leather briefcase, such as this one from Roots. ($298, http://www.roots.ca)
If you're wearing a knee-length trench with jeans, keep it casual and open. If you want a more tailored look, go for a short, fitted trench "jacket" that can be belted and still look hip.
Slimmed-down trenches are a perfect complement for today's skinny suits. The more casual, urban vibe means you can go without a tie and still look polished.
Dave McGinn
Dave McGinn