Normand Laprise and sous-chef Cheryl Johnson. His new eatery will be inspired by the Montreal spirit.
Time goes by, and I'm facing the fact that it's already been 17 years since the opening of Toqué! on St-Denis Street.
The restaurant eventually outgrew its home on Montreal's Plateau and moved to the Quartier International. But the culinary philosophy behind Toqué! has remained the same: to create interesting, innovative dishes with fresh, local products.
For example, at this time of the year, we receive fresh snails, strawberries, white asparagus and couteaux de mer - razor clams - which we use to refresh the menu on a daily basis. Over the years, we've developed techniques that make it easier to adapt the dishes, even when the dishes are constantly changing (the way you eat scallops this week is completely different from the way we serve them in August, with other seasonal fare).
Which always raises the question, "How far can we go with this reinventing?" There are inherent difficulties in serving seasonal fare, not only the issue of food availability but also the preferences of our customers. But I think that the development of Québécoise cuisine moderne was an essential step. It was important to break the ties and give us a comfortable distance from classic cuisine française. Now we have our own culinary identity.
So, with that in mind, I will soon open a second restaurant. Inspired by the Montreal spirit, it will focus on serving fresh and original products with a contemporary urban twist (I'll still be developing ideas for Toqué). Its home will be right at the heart of the Quartier des Spectacles: Think of it as lunch or dinner theatre, with a simple yet delicious show on your own plate.
The new place will offer modern Quebec renditions of classic European brasserie dishes such as saucisses de Toulouse - although, since they will be homemade, they will be known as saucisses de Montréal. They'll be served with greens or double-fried French fries (the recipe follows). Some things just never go out of style.
Double-fried French Fries
6 large potatoes (preferably russet)
2 quarts of canola oil
Salt as needed
Cut potatoes into ¼-inch julienne sticks and immediately place under running water. Rinse for about 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat oil to 320 F. Drain potatoes well and pat dry. Blanch potatoes in the oil for 3 to 4 minutes until soft. Place on paper towels to absorb oil. Cool completely. Bring the oil up to 350 F and fry the potatoes till crisp. Season with salt to taste.