Sedona Schnebly, the postmaster's wife in a small ranching community in the early 1900s, would hardly recognize the gentle, upscale elegance of the town that bears her name. Nor could she guess that this Northern Arizona town would become the residence of choice for so many celebrities and wealthy retirees.
Filmmakers have immortalized the iron-red sandstone buttes, spires and canyons in scores of movies, including John Wayne's Angel and the Badman and Joan Crawford's Johnny Guitar.
When New Agers discovered four magnetic vortexes in the area -- said to channel mystically charged energy -- hippies, artists and crystal-crunchers came in search of sun, solace and spiritual inspiration. So did vacationing urbanites, four million of whom flood the Sedona area each year.
Enchantment Resort and Mii amo Spa artfully combine Sedona's historical and spiritual appeal to attract well-heeled tourists in search of the area's magic. Set among the rugged contours of Boynton Canyon (heralded as one of the mystical vortexes) just eight kilometres north of Sedona, the 28-hectare, gated complex rests in a setting so stunning, it seems computer-enhanced.
Design The resort's low-profile adobe architecture is inspired by the landscape and the ruins of the ancient Yavapai-Apache cliff dwellers. The buildings blend perfectly with the landscape, with indigenous stone, wood, natural light and water flowing seamlessly throughout the property.
Adobe guest rooms are clustered along winding walkways that lead to the Clubhouse, where the Yavapai dining room, a full-sized swimming pool and studios for intimate gatherings are situated. When dusk falls, deer descend from the hills to forage in the cottonwood and sycamore trees that shade the stream meandering past guest-room decks and patios.
Gluckman Mayner Architects, whose work includes New York's Whitney Museum of American Art, designed the recently opened 2,229-square-metre spa, which skillfully incorporates the slope of the red-rock canyon wall in "pictures" framed by large, undraped windows. The spa is a mini-resort in its own right, with casitas ("little houses") and casual dining in addition to 24 treatment rooms where practitioners recruited from around the world offer hot-stone massage, reiki and Sedona mud wraps.
Bamboo and terrazzo floors lead to the Crystal Grotto, an earthen-floored meditation hideaway illuminated by the sun and moon. A massive mineralized trunk of an Arizona Ponderosa Pine anchors the centre space through which water and light flow around a super-sized quartz crystal. Rooms Oversized and luxurious are two adjectives that sum up the guest rooms anchored in southwest décor.
A palate of sand and sage influences the 220 canyon-side casitas and one- and two-bedroom haciendas, all with fireplaces to temper the cool, off-season Arizona evenings. Bathrooms are appointed with whirlpool bathtubs large enough for two.
Mii amo spa also offers 14 rooms and two suites, one of which has 140 square metres of living space with an outdoor courtyard complete with whirlpool, shower and fireplace. Food and drink Breakfast alfresco on the guest-room patio is a perfect entrée to the day. For a more convivial and scenic experience, the roof-top deck of the Yavapai Restaurant (Arizona's best place to enjoy a prickly-pear margarita) provides unforgettable views of the sun casting gold, amber and tangerine rays on Boynton Canyon. Chef Steven Bernstein's menu features buffalo tenderloin, blue-corn-crusted chili relleno, and black-bean soup. On Sunday mornings, Bernstein prepares a Champagne Jazz Brunch.
Mii amo's kitchen combines Oriental and southwest flavours to underpin low-fat, vegetarian and macrobiotic dishes made with local produce. Chili peppers and heirloom tomatoes are pulled from the chef's garden.
The spa's juice bar serves freshly squeezed, organically grown citrus, along with alcoholic beverages. The latter include premium sakes ranging from the sweet Momokawa Pearl to the drier, and pricier, Y Sake. The resort also provides gourmet picnic baskets for day-trippers. Ambiance While Enchantment exudes exclusivity, it is also surprisingly unpretentious. "Smart casual" is the recommended dress, although some folks stroll through the days sans makeup, in plush robes provided by the resort. The emphasis here is on rejuvenating the spirit and nourishing the soul, with staff preparing fitness and spiritual programs for each guest. Clientele The resort appeals to big-name stars looking for a buff-up, corporate groups on retreat, and "bourgeois bohemians" seeking simplicity and seclusion. It is kid-friendly and provides programs for children aged four to 12 at Camp Coyote. Service This is where Enchantment Resort earns its many awards. Staff wheel golf carts throughout the resort catering to every possible whim, be it a linen-laid lunch on a private patio or whisking a guest to the swimming pool. Web access and business support are at the ready. Guest services include gratis morning orange juice and newspaper delivery, evening turn-down, concierge, bell staff and, for a fee, the Camp Coyote Kids Program. Things To Do While simply gazing at Boynton Canyon more than justifies a stay here, pinon pine-lined trails leading to hundreds of kilometres of hiking and back-road cycling are a worthwhile diversion.
The resort offers tennis, swimming, croquet and, of course, New Age and traditional native American spa treatments. Staff will also arrange horseback riding and tours of Sedona's many art galleries.
The Verde Canyon Railroad runs four-hour trips along the forest of the Verde River in railcars powered by vintage FP7 locomotives built in 1912 (only 12 remain in operation in North America today). The route takes visitors through the lush Verde River Valley, where 80 per cent of Arizona's waterfowl and wildlife nest and feed.
The Grand Canyon is a two-hour drive or a 50-minute flight via Sedona Sky Treks. Red Rock Jeep Tours offers trips into the back country, vortex tours and archeological explorations of the Yavapai-Apache settlement ruins. Contact Information Enchantment Resort: 525 Boynton Canyon Rd., Sedona; phone: (928) 282-2900; Web: http://www.enchantmentresort.com. Rates are $195 (all amounts in U.S. dollars) to $376 for guest bedrooms, $295 to $1,075 for suites. Mii amo spa: phone: (888) 749-2137; Web: http://www.miiamo.com. Verde Canyon Railway: 300 North Broadway, Clarkdale, Ariz.; phone: (800) 320-0718; or visit the Web site at: http://www.verdecanyonrr.com. Sedona Sky Treks: 235 Air Terminal Dr., Sedona Airport Main Terminal, Sedona; phone: (928) 282-6628; or visit the Web site at: http://www.skytreks.com. Red Rock Jeep Tours: phone: (800) 848-7728; on the Web: http://www.redrockjeep.com.