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Unable to welcome international buyers and industry professionals to tour and taste, wineries in New Zealand have mobilized to offer a week of virtual activities to raise awareness. New Zealand Wine Week activities, including discussions, tastings and workshops, will run Feb. 8 to 12 online at nzwine.com.
The event will also see the launch of a catalogue of New Zealand wines with a search function to see which wineries have product available in market or are looking to export, with tasting notes and other relevant information. With its borders closed, the country’s wineries need to rethink their sales and marketing efforts. Increasing costs of production and potential labour shortages also pose significant issues for the industry.
In September, 2019, New Zealand’s wine industry celebrated the 200th anniversary of the planting of its first grape vines. The real success story, however, is much more recent. Commercial vineyard operations seriously got started in the 1970s. New Zealand’s wineries primarily served the domestic market until the 1980s, but then the world fell in love with Marlborough sauvignon blanc.
In 2020, there were more than 700 wineries in operation, 80 per cent of which export to international markets. Despite the challenges presented by COVID-19, New Zealand wine registered its 25th consecutive year of export growth, with a 6-per-cent increase for a total value of NZ$1.92 billion (about $1.7-billion). By comparison, there are nearly 700 wineries operating from coast to coast in Canada. Exports of Canadian bottled wine was valued at $32.1-million in 2019.
Canada’s No. 1 selling white wine is Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc. Wine lovers haven’t lost their taste for the distinctive, mouthwatering style, even as other “it” grapes, notably shiraz from Australia and malbec from Argentina, have effectively boomed and busted.
Next week’s What’s New, What’s Next? seminar will address other grape varieties and styles that are happening in cellars in New Zealand, including the nation’s burgeoning low- and no-alcohol wine scene. The challenge facing alternate varieties is carving space for themselves. Liquor boards in Canada and most restaurant buyers behave the same way classic-rock radio programmers do. They play the hits.
If there’s only so much shelf space available for New Zealand, stocking oddities like gruner veltliner or riesling, no matter how celebrated and delicious, at the expense of commercially successful sauvignon blanc doesn’t make sense. But without developing a market for other wines, New Zealand’s wineries face a catastrophe should sauvignon blanc cease being such a crowd-pleaser.
Not surprisingly, this week’s roundup of recommended wines from New Zealand centres on sauvignon blanc, with a few notable exceptions. Tasting through a wide range of samples, I enjoyed seeing how the diversity of growing regions yielded different expressions of the grape.
Babich Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (New Zealand), $17.95
Babich offers an easy-to-appreciate soft and round style that’s refreshing but less intense than other expressions. Simple and standard issue; a little more refreshment would help to counter that juicy fruit character without losing its mass appeal. Available in Ontario at the above price, $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $20.99 in Saskatchewan, $17.99 in Manitoba, $23 in Nova Scotia.
Cirro Pinot Noir 2018 (New Zealand), $30
Made in the juicy and approachable Marlborough style, this offers a nice array of cherry and berry fruit with some earth and spice notes. The aromas and flavours are nicely in sync, and the finish is long and spicy. Chill slightly for best enjoyment. Drink now to 2024. Available at the above price in private wine shops in British Columbia.
Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (New Zealand), $27.95
Made from estate vineyards in Marlborough’s Wairau Valley region, this fresh and focused white finds Dog Point serving up its typically concentrated version of sauvignon blanc. There’s appealing richness and refreshment on offer, with a core of juicy fruit that’s nicely rounded out by a lingering finish. Drink now to 2024. Available in Ontario at the above price, $33.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Marlborough Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (New Zealand), $13.95
Here’s a fairly simple yet agreeable expression of Marlborough sauvignon blanc that’s less intense than more zesty examples. There’s a pleasant mix of citrus and tropical fruit notes, with some sweetness that makes the finish more cloying than refreshing. Drink now to 2021. Available in Ontario at the above price, $16.99 in British Columbia ($13.99 until March 3), various prices in Manitoba.
Matua Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (New Zealand), $16.95
A pleasantly fruity wine, this offers tropical and tree fruit flavours with some floral and grassy notes. Drink now to 2021. Available in Ontario at the above price, $17.99 in British Columbia ($15.99 until March 3), $18.49 in Saskatchewan, $15.99 in Manitoba, $21.49 in Newfoundland, $19.99 in the Yukon.
Sileni Lodge Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018 (New Zealand), $26.95
This rich and flavourful chardonnay from Hawkes Bay offers concentrated citrus and honey flavours, with forward toasted oak and nutty notes that add complexity. It offers appealing complexity, concentration and structure. Drink now to 2024. Available in Ontario.
Trinity Hill Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (New Zealand), $19.95
Located in Hawkes Bay, Trinity Hill is one of New Zealand’s leading syrah producers. This is a richer style of sauvignon blanc with terrific texture and weight. Attractive citrus and stone fruit notes are nicely integrated and balanced by bright acidity to make for a refreshing dry and complex white wine. Drink now to 2023. Available in Ontario at the above price.
Waimea Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (New Zealand), $19.95
Made from two vineyards in the Waimea plains area of Nelson on New Zealand’s South Island, this is a refreshing and flavourful white wine. Its citrus and green apple flavours are nicely enhanced by some herbal and tropical notes. The fruity intensity and fresh character make this truly enjoyable. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2022. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta.
Christopher Waters