This is made under the auspices of Stratus Vineyards, where Charles Baker, director of marketing and sales, branched out years ago with his own project devoted to his passion, riesling. The 2010 may be his best yet, off-dry but perfectly balanced with zippy acidity, showing apricot, floral accents and that character that riesling zealots brake for, petrol – as in the subtle waft of an auto garage. Try it with smoked fish or roast pork.