Drive north from the Golden Gate Bridge, veer right and you'll come into Carneros, the gateway appellation to both Napa and Sonoma counties. The magical fog that envelops the bridge keeps things cool in Carneros, just beyond the shore of San Pablo Bay, adding lift to the sun-ripened fruit. This wine from a producer best known for bubbly delivers lusciously jammy fruit, a crowd-pleasing introduction to the grape for those with a hankering for body. But it finishes admirably dry and finds structure in a nuance of baking spices. $26 in Quebec.