One of the young, new-generation stars of Manchuela in east-central Spain, Juan Antonio Ponce is a poster boy for the growing reputation of the region's indigenous bobal grape. Medium full-bodied, this red, made mainly from the concentrated fruit of 75-year-old vines, is as redolent of Mediterranean herbs as it is of fruit, and that's a lovely thing. Raspberry, cherry, pepper to the max and fresh, lively acidity, with a firmly astringent backbone. Available in Ontario.