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Medium-full-bodied and silky, this is expertly crafted, bright-eyed chardonnay that stands in stark contrast to the rich-sweet, oaky examples that typified the country's – and, in particular, Wolf Blass's – past. Peaches on popcorn, with bright acidity and well-integrated, unassertive toasty oak. Try it with fleshy, rich fish dishes, though it's versatile enough to tackle lots more. Available for $20.99 in B.C., $25 (suggested) in Alberta, $24.73 in Manitoba, $25.25 in Quebec.

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