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This is chardonnay from southern Burgundy (the Saint-Véran appellation, to be exact). And very fine it is, batting above average for its neighbourhood, crafted with classic Burgundian appreciation for subtlety. Rich grapes from 37-year-old vines deliver nuances of tropical fruit, roasted nuts, peach and honey. Smartly oaked, this spent six months on its lees, partly in barrel and partly in stainless tanks. Available in Ontario at the above price, $27.60 in Quebec.

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