Dazzling chandeliers illuminate lobbies the size of train stations in the crowd of luxury hotels on offer in this go-go city. At the newly opened Luxe Manor, by contrast, the only chandeliers are those etched on mirrors and glass panels.
Billing itself as "the first designer boutique hotel in Kowloon," the Luxe Manor uses fake fireplaces, imitation antiques and empty picture frames to poke fun at its gaudy rivals.
There's just enough whimsy to make guests feel they are privy to an in-joke without leaving them disoriented. Rooms are small by Hong Kong standards, although designed to look sleek and spacious. And the friendly service and upscale restaurant give the hotel a classy image.
Location
In the heart of bustling Kowloon, the Luxe Manor is adjacent to the bars and restaurants of Knutsford Terrace. It is a short walk from the Nathan Road shopping area and an MTR subway station. A slightly longer walk leads to the Star Ferry, for the world's most scenic cross-harbour boat ride.
Design
The massive red entrance door, studded with golden bells, leads to a small but dazzling lobby where the back wall is draped with red fabric. It's all part of Welsh-born designer David Buffery's plan to create a "surreal but comforting boutique hotel" in the tradition of Spanish artist Salvador Dali.
There's a gym and business centre in the basement.
And the hotel claims to have more high-tech features than any other in the area, with VoIP and WiFi available everywhere.
Rooms
Empty gold picture frames are painted on the white walls. One even extends onto the ceiling. The flat-panel TV sits inside another gold frame and resembles a mirror when turned off. The painted fireplace is obviously a fake, and the chest of drawers is a false front for the mini-bar.
There are bright swirls in the carpet and shimmering flecks in the black bathroom floor tiles. The shower has high pressure, but there's no tub. A large desk lets you get down to business.
Coming this year are six designer suites. Advance publicity says they will be shaped like Bedouin tents, with beds shaped like a bird's nest.
Service
Hold on to your breakfast plate or the hovering wait staff will whisk it away before you finish. Request a wake-up call and it's made right on time; if you don't pick up the phone, someone will ring your doorbell within minutes.
Clientele
GR8 Leisure Concept, the Hong Kong-based owner and operator, invested about $15-million to convert a former tourist hotel into this trendy boutique property. Its targeted guests are frequent business and leisure travellers from Europe, North America, Southeast Asia and China.
Ambience
Homey, friendly, fun and business-like all at the same time. The lobby is full of people who smile and welcome you on your way in or out, including a helpful concierge.
Food and drink
The Aspasia restaurant, with mauve walls and white tablecloths, looks elegant, even for breakfast. Management hopes to make it and a second restaurant opening this spring in-places for both tourists and local residents.
Chef Roland Schuller once ran the kitchen at Italy's Michelin-starred Don Alfonso 1890 and was most recently executive chef on the luxury motor yacht Christina O. Under his direction, all ingredients are flown in from Italy, even the flour for breakfast pastries.
While many of Hong Kong's top hotels offer a full complimentary breakfast, the Luxe Manor room rate includes only a continental buffet. At night, the five-course tasting menu (smoked tuna, crab soup, pasta with sea urchin, beef or sea bass and fruit with ice cream) costs just over $100 with tax. The à la carte menu features "daily hand-picked vegetables from Italy," pasta and main courses starting at $28.
Things to do
Join the throngs who promenade, shop and eat out late into the night. The true bargains are at side-street shops, but large malls offer a mind-boggling selection of designer items in the latest styles. The city's 12,000 restaurants dish up every variety of Chinese and international cuisine. New attractions not to be missed include the Ngong Ping cable-car ride to the giant Buddha on Lantau, the impressive Hong Kong Heritage Museum in the New Territories and the tranquil beauty of Nan Lian, the classical garden at the Chi Lin Nunnery in Kowloon.
Bottom line
A calm oasis in the heart of a frenetic city.
Hotel vitals ESSENTIALS The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, phone 852-3763-8880, e-mail info@theluxemanor.com, website http://www.theluxemanor.com.
RATES AND ROOMS The hotel has 153 rooms ranging in size from 22 to 31 square metres, available with twin, queen or king beds. Prices range from $1,800 to $2,500 (HK) or about $270 to $375 (Canadian), plus taxes. Six themed suites of 46 to 71 square metres will open this spring.
Top draw There's a human scale to the luxury offerings here that you won't find at Hong Kong's massive chain hotels.
Needs work In a triumph of design over function, there isn't enough drawer and shelf space to let guests to unpack and settle in.