As soon as I spotted Igor, I knew that Graziano Marchese was biting the
bullet.
Mr. Marchese is the affable owner of Dooney's, the unpretentious but storied Annex café where creative minds go to work or unwind. As of last Thursday and for the next week, they'll have to go elsewhere. When they return, they'll be in for a surprise.
So will Mr. Marchese. Dooney's has become the latest conquest of Restaurant Makeover, the Canadian-produced television series that - for a fee of $15,000 -transforms troubled neighbourhood joints into glossy hot spots.
"Graz, how could you?" is what many regulars are expressing. That was my reaction two weeks ago when I found myself enjoying a fragrant cup of clove tea with my long-time friend and fellow Globe and Mail writer Rick Salutin, a Dooney's devotee.
Amidst the bookish crowd, I became distracted by two slick men only to realize that I was watching Igor Shamraychuk, Restaurant Makeover's contractor extraordinaire, at work.
I soon learned from Mr. Marchese that the other fellow was Jonathan Furlong, the show's newest designer. They examined the space the way a fashion designer sizes up a model: lacking compassion but passionate about their vision.
Upon chatting with Mr. Furlong, I became less concerned for Mr. Marchese. Having frequented the establishment over the years, Mr. Furlong maintained that he would do nothing to destroy its authenticity. Tightlipped almost to perfection, Mr. Furlong let slip that the tables will have granite inlays. Sounds promising.
When I met with line producer Michael Taylor at ground zero earlier this week, he said that people have nothing to fear. "This isn't the kind of place we want to make nouveau riche," he said, while admitting that this is the first restaurant where customers have actually cared so much.
In fact, some people are so emotionally invested in the reno that Mr. Marchese organized a "town hall" meeting, filmed last Thursday for inclusion in the episode. City councillor Anthony Perruzza, writer Brian Fawcett and Chippy's owner John Lee were among those who offered feedback and, for the sake of the plotline, all cheered that change would be good.
But at what cost? When I caught up with freelance book editor Dominic Darell, he said, "There are so many places in Toronto to go for that," meaning, a more chichi setting. "And if Graz has no say, then it's not his place."
Indeed, Mr. Marchese must surrender to a team who create drama for the sake of good television. "I was really excited until I woke up this morning," he said on Thursday. "I'm having abandonment issues; it's like giving up a child."
But he'd been feeling the heat, more so recently than in the past when he fended off a Starbucks in 1996 thanks to the support of local figureheads such as the late Jane Jacobs. "At the end of the day, I've got to pay $9,200 a month in rent and that's a big concern all the time," he said. Ideally, the fresh coat of paint, new furniture and a more inspired menu (care of chef Corbin Tomaszeski, who creates globally influenced fare for Holt Renfrew) will encourage more people to come for dinner. Dooney's will officially re-open next Monday.
And what of the effects of this so-called restaurant makeover? The face-lifted Latitude, Via Oliveto and Innocenti are now closed. "What happens afterward, I'm not sure," answered Mr. Taylor, whose soft and reassuring voice could convince me to drink antifreeze. "It could be management issues. We don't tell you how to run the restaurant."
Fair enough. And if Mr. Marchese shines at anything, it's his generosity toward both patrons and staff.Mr. Taylor may have put it best: "It will be a nail biter for sure." Here's hoping the week works up everyone's appetite.
Amy Verner