Well, that was some Tour de France. The young Spaniard Alberto Contador managed to vanquish an aging, third-place Lance Armstrong. Wow.
Actually, I don't care. Like you, I didn't watch. And I'm an avid cyclist. What's to see, right? Virtually weightless bikes powered by steroids. Plus, not once have I caught a glimpse of a grape vine in the highlight reels, a cinematographic achievement for shooting in France, if you ask me.
In any event, the French "athletics" story of the week was President Nicolas Sarkozy, who collapsed while running and had to be rushed to hospital. "Speedy Sarko," as the jog-aholic has been dubbed, doesn't even drink. For the record, he's fine, though I think a little less running and a little more riesling would do the man good.
Yes, you've now come to the end of my segue. Vintages stores in Ontario are staging their own little Tour de France today. Suffice it to say that my preview tasting of this release of fine wines was a lot more fun than trying to spot the yellow jersey in a swarm of wheels and helmets.
Leading off the release are several Bordeaux from the venerated 2005 harvest, which is believed by some to be the greatest in Bordeaux since 1982 and possibly as impressive as 1961. It's also the year Lance Armstrong won his seventh consecutive Tour before semi-retiring.
In my opinion, the yellow jersey for today's 2005 release belongs to Château d'Aiguilhe 2005 ($48, product No. 501163). This is a red I fondly recall having at my favourite wine bar in Paris, Le Passage, 10 years ago. I still have notes from when the owner proudly dispensed pours from a double-size magnum of the 1995 vintage. It was his featured wine that evening.
He loved it and so did I for its concentration and solid core of blackcurrant fruit.
The currently available 2005 is so dense and sunshine-ripe that you might be tempted to ask who put the Napa in your claret glass. Made by Comtes de Neipperg in the humble Côtes de Castillon district, this perennial overachiever is an outstanding value for a serious red Bordeaux. Rich plum and berry flavours are matched by interesting notes of cedar, charred wood and espresso. The tannins are slightly gritty and astringent. It should cellar nicely for five to 10 years and would be all too easy to drink now with steak or lamb.
Label collectors may be more interested in two other almost-as-good Bordeaux reds. Château Grand-Puy Ducasse 2005 ($52, No. 502997) is a very nice effort from another perennial best buy from the region. (Bordeaux shopping tip: If you don't, in fact, know them already, you might want to make a mental note of Grand-Puy Ducasse as well as the other great "grand puy" of the Pauillac commune, Grand-Puy-Lacoste. These neighbouring estates are both classified fifth growths and often outshine more vaunted third- and fourth-growth wines for much less money. Two other smart luxury buys: Lynch-Bages and Pontet-Canet.)
The other fancy Bordeaux name in this Vintages release is Les Pagodes de Cos 2005 ($59, No. 501833).
It's the baby wine of the esteemed St. Estephe property Château Cos d'Estournel, a darling of international critics. It's unusually smooth and quite balanced.
There are worthy bargain-priced wines in today's Vintages release too, starting with Château de Nages Réserve 2007 ($14.95 in Ontario, No. 427617; $14.45 in Quebec, same product number). The colour is inky-purple and opaque, presaging a rich palate of dark-skinned fruits, fennel seed, lavender and spice.
For a great price, another good red is Domaine du Grand Retour Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2007 ($11.95, No. 127167). Very dry, spicy and lively with acidity, it shows a nice savoury side of cracked pepper and herbs. It won a gold medal in a French competition.
The impressive French white of the Ontario release is another consistent performer. E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2007 ($17.95, No. 290296) is the sister wine of a popular red from one of the Rhône Valley's prominent big producers. I really like this blend of viognier, roussanne, marsanne, clairette and bourboulenc. A refreshing alternative to sometimes-boring chardonnay, this is clean and floral and somewhat neutral in flavour, but with a seductive viscosity and faint notes of pear, citrus and mineral.
And there's a nice, serious dry rosé from the same region, too. Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rosé 2008 ($16.95, No. 739474) is a burst of berries in a medium-bodied, very dry frame.
Other highlights from elsewhere include: Produttori di Govone Barbaresco 2005 from Italy ($29.95, No. 119503), Altesino Rosso di Altesino 2007 from Italy ($19.95, No. 658369; $21.99 in B.C., No. 553933), Pere Ventura Tresor Brut Nature Cava, a great bubbly from Spain ($17.95, No. 122382), and Finca Flichman Expresiones Reserve Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 from Argentina ($15.95, No. 17111).