One of my greatest joys when I cross-country ski is encountering wildlife. After all, I’m a biologist by training. As my guide, Camil, and I glide on a riverfront trail in Quebec’s Bic National Park, where dappled light filters through stands of towering spruce, I notice the tracks of a fox and then a snowshoe hare, briefly concerned that the two might intersect. Thankfully, my worries are allayed: There’s motion in a thick snow drift; it’s the bunny, hopping about contentedly. Farther along, a white-tailed deer scampers off through the deep snow. Later, as we pass a vast, empty snowscape – former agricultural fields – Camil informs me that he recently spied a falcon sweeping overhead. (My concern for the hare resurfaces.)
Skiing in Bic National Park couldn’t be more scenic, given that the trails are perfect for novice skiers.Mathieu Dupuis/Handout
With a 20-kilometre network of mostly flat cross-country trails and a consistent snow cover, this park on the St. Lawrence River is a Nordic skier’s delight. I chose to ski here (and elsewhere in the maritime regions of Quebec) for the easy access to charming towns, pristine forests, a variety of ski venues and stellar coastal scenery where the river often resembles the sea.
In Bic, I encounter far more animal tracks than humans. In fact, Camil and I don’t run into another soul for hours. As we parallel the vast Ha! Ha! Bay, I spot signage depicting a weasel, another local creature. We pause near the water to admire a sculpture portraying a trio of seals. Camil tells me that, depending on the tide, even in winter seals may be found perching on a nearby boulder that’s half-submerged.
We continue toward the end of Moose Cape, a rugged, forested area that juts into the turbulent estuary, when suddenly the silence is pierced by the sound of crashing waves. Heaps of snow coat our path, and we battle ferocious winds as we approach the vertiginous edge. There, I gaze at the breathtaking sea cliffs, taking in the panoramic views of the St. Lawrence, with waves pummelling the rocks far below.
This and other scenic cross-country ski venues await in Bas-Saint-Laurent and Gaspesie, two expansive regions of Eastern Quebec.
Rivière-du-Loup
Ski Set along the shores of the St. Lawrence River, Chalet des sports in Notre-Dame-du-Portage rents ski equipment and offers night skiing. Bring a headlamp if you anticipate being on the trails after the sun sets. tourismeriviereduloup.ca
Stay Hôtel Universel, conveniently located right off the highway, has a heated pool and spa with its myriad treatments and sauna, so be sure to pack a swimsuit. hoteluniverselrdl.com
Do Along Lafontaine Street in downtown Rivière-du-Loup, the snow sculpture competition is held from Jan. 28-30. Or head indoors to the Museum of Bas-Saint-Laurent, where the permanent exhibit Visages et paysages (Faces and Landscapes) shares historical photographs of the region and its community members. villerdl.ca; mbsl.qc.ca
Matane
Ski: Club de Ski de Fond de Matane is sliced by a series of mostly loop trails appealing to different skill levels. With scattered bird feeders, you may spy goldfinches flitting about. facebook.com/skidefondmatane
Stay: The contemporary Riôtel Matane offers sun-filled rooms with river views and phenomenal sunsets. Plan to relax on the second floor, where you’ll find pools, Jacuzzi and spa facilities. riotel.com
Do: Soothe sore muscles at Oblivio Spa with a hot stone or aromatherapy massage. If you’re looking for something creative, Espaces F is an artist-run centre focused on visual and digital arts. Brussels-based artist David Delruelle’s photography show Memorabilia runs Feb. 25 to April 2. obliviospa.com; espacesf.org
Rimouski
Two contemporary abstract sculptures stand as a tribute to shipwrecks near the trailhead of the Littoral Trail.Mathieu Dupuis/Handout
Ski: Near the trailhead of the Littoral Trail, an easy linear route paralleling the St. Lawrence, two contemporary abstract sculptures stand as a tribute to shipwrecks. At trail’s end, walk to Rocher-Blanc, a sand and pebble beach beside a calm cove. In Beausejour Park, the Draveur Trail follows the Rimouski River, showing off some figurative sculptures created by a local artist. Another section, L’Éboulis, feels more remote, with densely forested paths and a covered bridge. Beausejour Park rents ski equipment. Skiing in Bic National Park couldn’t be more scenic, given that the trails, perfect for novice skiers, combine dramatic views of offshore islands with those of woodlands. tourismerimouski.com; sepaq.com
Stay: At Refuge du Vieux Loup de Mer, five unique one- to three-bedroom chalets are open in winter, snuggled in clusters of woodlands on the edge of Bic National Park. Each is individually appointed with everything from a lynx fur pelt to colourful fishing flies displayed under glass. vieuxloupdemer.com
Do: The four-kilometre-long promenade fronting the St. Lawrence River is a popular, year-round walking route for visitors and locals alike. Many stop to inspect a tidal tower displaying real-time tidal activity. Or visit the Historical Maritime Site of Pointe-au-Père, where you can explore a 90-metre-long Royal Canadian Navy submarine and one of Canada’s tallest lighthouses, and learn the details of one of Canada’s worst sea disasters at the Empress of Ireland Museum. quebecmaritime.ca
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