Tucked away in a little side street at the edge of Milan's fashionable Corso Como district is a small oasis for those who want to soak up the trendy vibe without having to go too far to get it. Since it opened in the spring of 2002, Una Hotel Tocq has been home to both the rock 'n' roll crowd and those with lifestyles that require them to be where the action is. And with most of Milan's most exclusive nightclubs and cafés steps from the lobby door, there is plenty of action here.
Ambiance
First and foremost, the Tocq is a discount boutique hotel, minimal and modern. At the same time, it's a respite for visiting musicians and a sort of starter hotel for stylish young travellers who want the best in design but don't want to pay a billion euros for it. The lobby and adjoining bar are calm and breezy, with no one in much of a rush -- a good thing if you're there to relax. And although guests and staff all seem to have just the right haircut, there is very little posing.
Design
Designed by famed Italian designer Aldo Cibic, the Tocq has a ton of style: rust-coloured walls, diamond-patterned granite floors, blue light basking the elevator area, and simple Italian furniture that is actually comfortable. The small elevators are made of green opaque glass and brushed steel. In the bar, acrylic empty picture frames look carved out of ice. Black and white mural-sized photos of charging bison play against a large basin of water with leaves and candles floating in it. Red apples sit in little wooden trays here and there, in direct violation of the boutique-hotel green-apple dictum. Someone obviously didn't get the memo.
Rooms
This smaller member of the Una Hotel chain is busy without seeming too crowded, with 109 rooms and 13 apartments. The quarters are bare-bones, but with plenty of space. There are no-fuss blue polyester blankets (no spread), lots of blond wood and rich, wine-coloured carpets that don't show the dirt. Beers go for $6 in the mini-bar with plenty of plastic cups for your entourage. All rooms have a safe, a TV with pay channels, slippers, and instant coffee fixings. Bathrooms are comfortable and well-lit. Thick striped beige drapes come in handy for that afternoon nap or in case you want to play the rock star and not get up until noon.
Service
Despite some shaky English, the staff is amiable enough in a city where even washroom attendants have attitude. You can tell they're used to dealing with all the stupid questions young tourists must ask.
The bar service is prompt, but the staff has a hard time looking you in the eye. It could have been my platinum hair. Or maybe they were just embarrassed by the turquoise and green polyester uniforms they have to wear that say "Follow Me" on the back. Most everyone is on their toes, though, and it only took housekeeping four minutes to find a new bathtub plug and run it up to the room when asked.
Clientele
Rufus Wainwright looked up from the interview he was giving in the corner of the lounge when we entered, but we were too cool to wave. Other than the musicians who are the bread and butter of this establishment, the clientele consists of young business people and actors -- all on their way up, without question, but watching the cash. At 7 p.m., when the free snacks hit the bar, you'll see a bit of everything -- creative office types, tourists in shorts and tanks, even kids in ball caps.
The conference centre in the basement accommodates up to 110 people, who ground things a bit by diluting the music-biz glam.
Food and drink
You can have breakfast in your room from 7 a.m. for $9, but you should simply go to the buffet in the restaurant. It's free and there's real coffee. A quiet, comfortable terrace is hidden from the street off the restaurant on the second floor. Room-service prices are average -- $11 for a ham and cheese sandwich, $12 for a Caprese salad. For dinner, there's simply too much good food in the neighbourhood to bother eating in the hotel, but have a glass of prosecco or a Negroni at the bar before heading out.
Things to do
Bar hopping is the order of both the day and night. The Hollywood Club around the corner is often littered with visiting movie stars to ogle if you can make it past the doormen. The same goes for the fashionable Gasoline Club; hit Popstarz there on a Thursday night. The Executive Lounge has a Middle Eastern feel to it with a great outdoor bar and silk pillows strewn on wooden banquettes. And don't miss Pitbull, if only to check out the attractive bartenders doing their best Cocktail-era Tom Cruise impersonations with absolutely no irony.
The 10 Corso Como art gallery and restaurant also houses a massive bookstore where you can buy gifts. Late at night, the jasmine-scented garden patio there is a hit with locals and tourists alike, and the service is superb. There's terrific Mexican food to be had at Ganas Cocina Mexicana near the end of the strip. For those adventurous enough to brave the subway, Garibaldi Station is nearby.
Information
Una Hotel Tocq: Via Avenue de Tocqueville, 7/D, 20154 Milan, Italy; 39 (02) 62 071; http://www.unahotels.it. Rates start at about $220 for a double room.