Bradley Denton's already-hot new Queen West bar-restaurant, Czehoski, owes much of its charm to its iconic 1924 sign, and architectural and décor nods to its butcher-shop past.
"I had been peeking in the window for eight years before I was able to rent it," the co-owner says during a daytime tour. "The building told me what to do to it."
But now that he's open after two years of stop-and-go renovations, Mr. Denton only sees into the future. "I see the place as grossly incomplete. For me, it's just a canvas."
The long narrow space filled with reclaimed wood, tidy walnut tables and padded banquettes is open at 6 p.m. for dinner (by chefs Nathan Iseberg and David Haman). Soon, it will open up as a café during the day, serving coffee, pastries and lunch to people on the go. Come summer, the handsome wood windows to the left of the front door will open up for ice-cream sales, as will the rooftop patio and grill. The third floor will be a private tasting/party room. And a small stage in the back of the main floor dining area is perfect for torch singers that will hark back to the Prohibition speakeasy era Czehoski knew well.
In the meantime, Mr. Denton, a soft-spoken guy whose former life as a Roots furniture designer has come in handy for the casually chic interiors, has more immediate plans to tweak the vibe in the dining room. Although foodie hits such as the $25 "low temperature steak in the memory of a grandfather" are taking root, Mr. Denton feels it's a bit too fancy.
It's clear that while he's happy to be the spot of the moment, he and his partners are keen to strike a balanced chord in the neighbourhood. "We almost want to be in the business of personal catering -- we want to be part of people's daily lives. We're built for longevity."
Czehoski, 678 Queen St. W., 416-366-6787