Scott ConantJJ Thompson/The Globe and Mail
Q: You wrote an open letter to Toronto on a Huffingtonpost.com blog that some Torontonians have found patronizing and condescending. What happened?
A: It was meant to be very sincere. I'm shocked that people find it condescending. To be honest, my fear was that people would find it corny.
Q: It may have been the line, "Miami is really beautiful, T-Dot. You should check it out sometime."
A: I was kind of referring not just to Miami, but to my restaurant there.
Q: Just so you know, Toronto cares a great deal about what New York thinks of it, but when New York says something about Toronto, the city is invariably insulted or outraged.
A: I didn't come to it from the point of view that "I'm a New Yorker and I really like you guys." I grew up in a little town called Oakville, Connecticut, and when you meet people who are as friendly and honest and nice as [in]Oakville, it's great to see and experience.
Q: We have a suburb called Oakville.
A: I'll get an apartment there.
Q: So how's the opening going?
A: Hands down, this has been the smoothest opening. Everyone here is so willing. We ask for products, we taste things, and everyone is so eager to please.
Q: That isn't always the case?
A: No. Restaurant openings can be extremely different.
Q: What about the kitchen talent?
A: We have women in the kitchen who spent time in Italy making pasta. I'm like, "I don't need to teach you guys anything."
Q: You are famously picky about ingredients. What do you think of the local ingredients you've found so far?
A: I'm shocked at the quality of the produce, and the meat and the fish, too. It's on par with California. We found a gentleman who makes prosciutto and salumi. He gave me a piece of pancetta that blew my mind. Food experiences like that don't happen very often.
Q: Who?
A: A guy named Mario. Awesome stuff.
Q: What else?
A: The quality of fish that we've gotten here - the sable fish, the black cod - has been spectacular, the best product that I've ever worked with. In general, people's passion towards food is inspiring.
Q: What are you going to do in the winter? Things get tricky here as far as fresh local produce goes.
A: So I hear. I cook with the seasons, so expect a lot of root vegetables. I'm not concerned about it.
Q: Have you tried any local restaurants?
A: Buca blew my mind. I love what they do. They hit it on every level.
Q: Are you going to sell stuff at farmers' markets here like you do in New York?
A: I don't see us doing that at the moment, but we may grow into it.
Q: You have a lot of restaurants to run. How much time are you actually going to be here?
A: I will be in and out. New York is only an hour away and Miami is only three hours away.
Q: Do you have a place here?
A: I stay at the hotel [The Thompson] It's nice.
Q: Can you describe one dish on the menu that isn't served in your other restaurants?
A: That pancetta we spoke about. I have a pancetta-wrapped veal loin with braised veal cheek and stewed summer vegetables.
Q: That's what I'm having.
A: The whole point of opening up a restaurant is to make people happy. And I say it best with pasta and food. It's about what's on the plate.
Special to The Globe and Mail