David Sidhu, owner-operator of Chimichanga, poses outside his Mexican restaurant in Yorkville.Fred Lum/The Globe and Mail
Hailed as Korean "[taken]up a notch" by Joanne Kates and the "Mother of all fusions" by Gina Mallet, Koko! Share Bar seemed like it might break the curse that jinxed its three predecessors in the same subterranean Yorkville location. But earlier this month, co-owner Sang Kim (formerly of Blowfish, Edo and Ki) and esteemed chef Shin Aoyama left following a falling out with partner Veronica Joo.
Now the 40-seat Japanese-Korean downstairser knows the struggles faced by its neighbours: The Angel of Death does some of his best work in Yorkville. Just ask the owner of Chimichanga, another recent arrival on the Yorkville strip. He has resorted to setting up a table of chips and guacamole on the street to lure people past the construction and down the steps to his 80-seat Mexican grill and tequila bar, which, in a short previous life, was a sushi joint. Now, a lone stereo speaker is topped with a sombrero and banquettes remain empty. Or canvass the bygone owners of Michelle's Brasserie, Spice Room, Flow, and Prego.
While there are a handful of survivors - One in the Hazelton Hotel and Ciao - the common complaint among locals and shoppers alike is that there's still nowhere to grab a meal that is inexpensive yet inspired (Subway and Sushi Inn don't count). "They're either too much of a scene or they're badly run," sums up Charles Khabouth, who is about to spend $3.5-million to transform Bloor Street dim sum destination Dynasty into a casual French bistro. But the influx of new luxury condos and the forthcoming Four Seasons Hotel and Residences suggests that people will be looking for more dining options. Until then, a handful of owner-operators and local experts try to explain why Yorkville is such a hard nut to crack.
"I think there are misperceptions that people who dream of opening in Yorkville bring with them. They don't realize that whether [the customer]is someone buying designer jeans for the first time or a well-heeled housewife, the expectation of service is substantially higher than anywhere except maybe Forest Hill. So people who've never spent $100 for dinner expect better level of service and they don't know why."
- Sang Kim, former manager and co-owner of Koko! Share Bar
"Usually the weather plays a big role. Because we're underground, a lot of people don't know we're here." David Sidhu, owner of two Chimichanga restaurants at 70 Yorkville Ave and 2360 Yonge St.
"Before I opened One, I always saw Yorkville as a wacky environment that didn't seem to have longevity or steady clientele. But with the hotel, I saw the sheer scale of the restaurant - 11,000 square feet and potential of the patio and knew I could make it work. … When we had the lounge area in the corner, it attracted all the wrong types of people - drug dealers and pimps and I didn't know who any of these people were. It was a magnet for all the wrong personalities. Since we got rid of it, things have been great. … There are some cherries to be picked and I'd like to open up another little spot in Yorkville, something like the Spotted Pig in New York."
- Mark McEwen, owner/chef of One Restaurant in the Hazelton Hotel
"You need to create an experience and spend money on design. Take Buca, downtown, as an example. It's in a basement, but look what they did to the space. So great design takes care of a lot of things … I also believe the sidewalks aren't wide enough, which means no outdoor cafes. I think Cumberland should be for pedestrians only."
- Ken Zuckerman, developer of Hazelton 36 luxury residences
"There aren't enough outdoor cafes. Also, a lot of the new condos are very expensive and the people buying them are 50 and older. They eat early and are not out in bars. … I want to do two or three restaurants or bars in the area. I want to create my own energy. With more than one, I will force the energy."
- Charles Khabouth, president of Ink Entertainment, which includes Ultra and the forthcoming bistro at 131 Bloor St. W.
"When you think about Yorkville, that's where tourists go now. It's not the cool place to be any more. But I think with all the new stores and the Four Seasons opening up, it's on an upswing again. … I would love good restaurants to come here. I want to move away from the stigma that Yorkville is not a good place to dine. It's finding the location. People want to be seen and look at beautiful people and if you're doing good food, they will come to you."
- Janet Zuccarini, proprietor of Trattoria Nervosa for 14 years
(Editor's note: A different version of this article ran in Saturday's print edition. The online version has been corrected.)
Amy Verner