Wadi Shab is one of Oman’s natural wonders, pools surrounded by canyons and vegetation. It’s both a source of water for local communities and a popular tourist destination.Kimberly Lyn
Visiting the Sultanate of Oman has been on my travel bucket list for years. I was first introduced to the country in 2018 by a family member, who had nothing but praise for its spectacular landscapes, abundant history and friendly people. Places that are off-the beaten path for Canadians, like Oman, and hold unique natural beauty have always fascinated the explorer in me.
One of the most biodiverse countries in the Middle East, Oman is home to arid rocky plains, stunning mountain ranges, breathtaking deserts and coastline. A lively tourism industry is built around the natural wonders of the country, and there is considerable work being done to conserve and preserve it while educating locals and visitors alike about the importance of doing so. Compared to many of its neighbours, Oman has a long tradition of environmental protection and conservation, addressing issues such as climate change, desertification and protecting native endangered species.
Under the late Sultan Qaboos bin Said, for example, the country established the region’s first Office of the Environmental Protection Adviser (1974), noteworthy for undertaking the reintroduction of the Arabian Oryx into their natural habitat in 1982, 10 years after being declared extinct due to poaching. And recently, under the country’s new sultan, Haitham bin Tariq Al Said, the ban of single use plastic bags (2020) and a goal of achieving net zero emissions by 2050 were announced. Oman is also home to one of the largest turtle nesting grounds in the world, where you can spot green and loggerhead turtles, and has robust programs to protect this species and their nesting habitats.
Over the course of three days, a local guide showed me some of the country’s most incredible natural wonders. One such stop was to one of the country’s most famous wadis – Wadi Shab. Wadis are natural pools of fresh water within a canyon surrounded by rich palm groves and vegetation; they can be attractive swimming spots and provide water to surrounding towns and villages. Wadi Shab is protected by the government because of its rich ecosystem and unique beauty. It’s also a link to Oman’s past, as a fourth millennium BCE trading route and a historical local water source, which is still used today.
As my guide, Adil, dropped me off at the entrance of the famed wadi, I asked for pointers. “Take a boat across the river. Then walk for about 45 minutes, swim then walk, then swim – just follow the people ahead of you,” he said. Simple enough. Off I went in the heat of the mid-afternoon sun.
After a short boat ride, I strolled through a wide and dry riverbed, venturing past working banana and date farms, long abandoned mud huts and wild donkeys – evidence of the wadi’s past and current uses.
But getting to the water wasn’t easy. That wide path suddenly turned into a cliffside hike on a somewhat precarious footpath, bookended by rugged cavern walls with steep cliffs and pools of emerald water below. The footpath led me to a riverbed riddled with rocks and boulders, some the size of a minivan. I methodically navigated my way up, down and around boulders – sometimes on all fours. The unevenness of the ground made footing risky, one wrong step and you could twist your ankle or worse – progress felt painfully slow.
Nevertheless, spotting the first signs of ancient life in the wadi – man-made aqueducts and terraced areas carved out of stone thousands of years ago – made it all worth it. Here, I marvelled at the towering cavern walls formed into intricate ridges and shapes by erosion over time. They’re a stunning contrast to the smooth and inviting waters of the wadi.
Signs posted in the wadi discourages swimming in the lower pools, because the water is used by local communities; however, the upper pools further into the wadi are designated for swimming. My foray into the first freshwater pool was easy enough. The depth of the subsequent pools rose requiring me to walk, wade, swim and comically slip-on algae covered rocks.
Arriving at the last pool, I met a group of tourists who had just emerged from the wadi’s popular hidden cave. They said it was safe to enter but warned that there are no places to rest – I would have to tread water the entire time I was inside. Curiosity got the best of me and I entered the sliver-sized cave opening; at one point, its narrowness forced me to partially submerge my head under water.
Murals at Wadi Shab welcome visitors and remind them that the natural landscape is pristine because locals care for it.Kimberly Lyn
Surfacing inside, I was greeted by the sound of rushing water from a small waterfall, while sunlight from high above illuminated the cave’s sandy coloured walls. A group of Omani men were swimming and using a rope to climb one of the walls and jump into the water. With their help, I scrambled onto a ledge to rest and cheer them on. Their kindness and smiles reminded me of a phrase Adil mentioned on our drive over, about the outgoing, generous and caring nature of his people. “This is the Omani way,” he said.
Soon, it was time to make the challenging trek back to meet him. There’s a mural the boat passes under as it travels to and from the path to the wadi. On the boat ride out, I noticed a line of small print on it: We love the wadi, so we take care of it! Just one sentence, but words that humbly capture the country’s long-standing commitment to the environment.