Let's be honest: Bucharest is likely not the first city you're going to pick for your family vacation. Nor the second or third. In fact, if you're like most travellers, the most likely reason you will find yourself in the Romanian capital is for business, as a stop-off point en route to a Black Sea resort or Carpathian ski lodge, or, especially at this time of year, at the start of a Transylvanian odyssey, perhaps in search of Count Dracula himself.
Although getting the most out of Bucharest presents more of a challenge than it would in, say, Paris or London, the city has its own unique, and sometimes surprising, appeal.
What's coming up
Halloween means celebration in the home of Vlad (The Impaler) Tepes, the inspiration for Bram Stoker's Dracula, and there's no end of activities in and around Bucharest this week. For those already in town, the Halloween Charity Ball at the Palatul Parlamentului tonight is one of the social highlights of the year, with more pricey tickets gaining entry to the gala ball and dinner, and cheaper ducats available for the after party ( ).
In a more casual vein, the year-round Count Dracula Club restaurant (Spl. Independentei 8A; 40-21-312-1353) presents a fun, if slightly B-movie-ish Dracula experience year round, but kicks things up a few notches around this time of year. The party on Halloween night in particular is not to be missed. Just remember to pack your cultural sensitivity, as Tepes is still revered by some Romanians for his bravery against invading Turkish armies in the 15th century. His portrayal as a vampire can stir up resentment, although most modern Romanians take it all in good spirits.
Diversions
In the 1980s, former Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceausescu decided that his county's capital city required a dramatic architectural centrepiece, which resulted in the Palatul Parlamentului (Calea 13 Septembrie 1; 40-21-311-3611), more popularly known as the Casa Poporului. Laboured on for five full years by 20,000 workers operating under the supervision of 700 architects, the hulking, 1,000-room behemoth -- second to only the Pentagon in size -- was but half-finished when the revolution began in 1989. Even today, the guide of the 45-minute tour will tell you that what's now home to both a commercial conference centre and the country's Parliament is about 90-per-cent complete.
To experience Bucharest's modern cultural side, take the long walk around the Casa Poporului to its western face (or take a cab; the building is so massive that the trip is easily justifiable) and pay a visit to the decidedly cutting-edge Muzeul National de Arta Contemporana (Str. Izvor 2-4, wing E4; 40-21-318-9137; ). With its focus on modern installation art and film, the MNAC galleries may not be to everyone's taste, but those for whom it's not can take solace in the panoramic views afforded by the museum's glass elevator.
For eclectic shopping and an up-close look at historic Bucharest -- plus a calming, pedestrian-only respite from the general chaos of Romanian roads -- visit the district known as Lipscani (bound roughly by the river, Calea Victoriei, Balcescu and Regina Elisabeta). Browse some of the most interesting and unusual antique stores you're likely to come across before retreating for a beer or espresso at Fire Club (Str. Gabroveni 14; no phone).
Where to stay
Even travellers with an aversion to the international chains will be charmed by the Athenee Palace Hilton (Str. Episcopiei 1-3; 40-21-303-3777; ), the almost century-old and ultraluxe jewel of Bucharest lodgings. Fully renovated in the 1990s, the Athenee Palace is practically at the centre of it all, with restaurants, museums and the business district all within a short walk or shorter taxi ride. (But beware the high-priced cabs that ply their trade in the hotel's vicinity and instead ask the doorman or concierge to get you a Grant, Cobalcescu or Cristaxi car.) Doubles start at about $250 a night.
Also situated well within the city's heart are the Hotel Lido (B-dul Magheru 5-7; 40-21-314-4930; ) and Hotel Opera (Str. Brezoianu 37; 40-21-312-4855; ), each about five minutes from the Hilton's front door. Although recently renovated, the Opera still shows some signs of wear, but makes up in room space and service what it lacks in ambience. The opposite could almost be said to be true of the Lido, however, where the elegance and value of the rooms is partly offset by the generally dour attitude of the staff. Both hotels offer doubles for about $200 a night.
Where to eat
If you insist on dining at what is widely viewed as the best table in Bucharest, you'll want to head to Balthazar (Str. Dumbrava Rosie 2; 40-21-212-1460), where competent, Asian-influenced fusion fare is still relatively inexpensive by Canadian standards and service is swift if decidedly sullen.
Better value by far awaits at one of Bucharest's finer Romanian restaurants, where the food is generally homey and generously portioned and the servers several degrees cheerier than the often morose, almost reluctant waiters one often encounters in pricier establishments. At the hunting lodge-like Burebista Vanatoresc (Str. Batistei 14; 40-21-300-2014), for example, while the atmosphere may scream "tourist trap," traditional dishes like tochitura moldoveneasca, pork and sausage served in an excellent sour sauce, speak directly to the Romanian love of hearty foods with simple, abundant flavours.
Less rudimentary is the more modernized Romanian fare at Casa Doina (Sos. Kiseleff 4; 40-21-222-6717), a lovely, rambling restaurant built in a restored, 18th-century villa near the city's tree-lined museum district. Immensely satisfying dishes include the soup that's almost a stew, ciorba de burta, and excellent grilled meats, many accompanied by mamaglia, the Romania take on polenta.
After dark
Even more so than other aspects of tourist life, nightlife in Bucharest is challenging, partly because of the linguistic divide, but primarily because servers and bartenders seem loath to offer any assistance whatsoever. Fortunately, there are enough anglo-friendly spots that the unilingual visitor need not stop in the same place every night.
Cheery and historic is The English Bar in the Hilton (Str. Episcopiei 1-3; 40-21-303-3777) which offers a casual "gentlemen's club" atmosphere as a complement to friendly service and the chance to muse on what the scene might have been like during the early days of the Second World War, when the bar acted as meeting spot for both Allied and Axis spies in officially neutral Romania.
For the more adventurous, Deja-vu (B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 25; 40-21-311-2322) is an often riotous cocktail bar boasting adventurous drink recipes -- don't be surprised if you see fire -- and a mix of loud, eclectic music. On the plus side, after midnight on a crowded, sweaty Saturday, it's unlikely that anyone will care whether you speak Romanian.