This assortment of reviews highlights a diverse selection of wines, including single vineyard rosés made from pinot noir grapes in Canada, satisfying white wines from regional producers in Italy, Portugal and South Africa, and large-production California red wines that have evolved with the times.Picasa/iStockPhoto / Getty Images
There are signs our taste for wine is changing. Sommeliers who buy wines for restaurants have been promoting lighter and fresher wines for years, such as zesty white wines, refreshing rosés and brighter red wines over heavier and higher alcohol styles. More and more consumers seem to be following suit.
The popularity of intensely coloured and flavoured wines, typically supported by dominant oak-derived flavours, is waning. The changing fashion was evident as I tasted the current release of the popular Beringer Founders’ Estate Cabernet, which is more streamlined and focused than the robust, soft and milk-chocolate-tinged red wine I recall from a decade ago.
A huge volume brand, Beringer Founders’ Estate Cabernet is still ripe and rich, but it’s toned down, which makes for a more balanced style of wine.
Consumer focus isn’t just shifting from a particular style of wine. For some wine lovers, it’s moving from classic varieties and regions to embrace more novel wines, notably ones made in newer appellations or from older, previously overlooked grape varieties such as loureiro and ribolla gialla from historic producing countries such as Italy, Portugal and others as well.
With that in mind, this assortment of reviews highlights a diverse selection of wines, including single vineyard rosés made from pinot noir grapes in Canada, satisfying white wines from regional producers in Italy, Portugal and South Africa, and large-production California red wines that have evolved with the times.
16 Mile Cellar Renegade Rosé 2020 (Canada), $17.95
A boutique winery located in west St. Catharines, Ont., 16 Mile Cellar has a dedicated focus on pinot noir and chardonnay. This mouth-watering rosé is produced from pinot noir grapes grown on Susan’s Vineyard, which is adjacent to the winery. Don’t let the vintage date fool you. Well-made rosés such as this can develop in bottle. This is bright with a ripe core of cherry and berry fruit flavours that carry through to a citrusy finish. Drink now. Available direct, 16milecellar.com
Avalon Pinot Noir 2021 (United States), $18.75
Avalon is a rarity in the world of wine: an inexpensive pinot noir that tastes like pinot noir. Produced with pinot noir grapes grown in vineyards in northern and central California located near the Pacific coast, this is a red wine with a ripe and silky texture. The flavours suggest concentrated cherry and berry notes with some smoke accents from the influence of oak aging. This is plush and juicy in style, with good balance and a decent finish. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in British Columbia.
Beringer Founders’ Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (United States), $17.95
Founders’ Estate is a ripe and round style of California cabernet sauvignon. Made in a crowd-pleasing style, this has generous dark fruit flavours with spice and vanilla notes. Drink now. Available in Ontario at the above price, $18.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $20.99 in Saskatchewan, $19.99 in Manitoba and Prince Edward Island, $18.45 in Quebec, $20.49 in New Brunswick, $21.79 in Nova Scotia, $22.51 in Newfoundland.
Cap Royal Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (France), $18.95
White wine represents 10 per cent of production in Bordeaux, which makes it easy to overlook. But this fresh and fruity wine, made from 100 per cent sauvignon blanc, shows the dry and refreshing character that makes this category so exciting. The flavours are vibrant, with bright lemon and some ripe apricot and peach notes. The result is a terrific aperitif or wine to enjoy with a meal in the sunny days ahead. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Curvos Loureiro 2022 (Portugal), $14.95
Looking to raise the profile of their white wines, Vinho Verde producers are moving from making simple, enjoyable and slightly sparkling blended wines in favour of refreshing single variety wines such as this enjoyable Lourerio. This tangy wine offers appealing tree fruit with some floral notes. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Kitsch Pinot Noir Rosé 2022 (Canada), $28
Making top-quality dry rosé has been a focal point for Kitsch winery since its inception in 2015. Nice to see that passion carry on with this pleasing and fruity rosé produced with pinot noir from a vineyard in Kelowna, B.C. There’s an appetizing mix of watermelon and berry flavours, with a silky texture and a clean finish. Drink now. Available direct, kitschwines.ca
Kellerei Bozen Pinot Grigio 2020 (Italy), $21.95
There’s pinot grigio and then there’s this dry and appealing style from Alto Adige, which reminds you how captivating these wines can be. A crisp character and appetizing fruit flavours suggesting citrus, pear and melon make this a flavourful white to savour. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.
Radford Dale Vinum Chenin Blanc 2021 (South Africa), $19.95
The Vinum range has been part of the Radford Dale portfolio for 20 years, a selection of wines that offers insight to the attention to detail at work in the vineyard and cellar. This is an expressive and enjoyable expression of chenin blanc, with richly concentrated pear and peach flavours delivered in a refreshing and vibrant style. Bright and balanced, this is a great house-wine candidate. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario at the above price, $27.50 in Manitoba.
Vidussi Ribolla Gialla 2021 (Italy), $19.95
Ribolla Gialla is an ancient grape variety that’s native to Friuli, where this dry, fresh and flavourful white wine is made. The flavours suggest a satisfying mix of apple, pear and peach with some earthy and honeyed notes. There’s richness and refreshment in the glass, which makes this a terrific introduction to the character of this dramatic grape. Available in Ontario.
Zaha Toko Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Argentina), $27.95
Yes, malbec from Argentina can be beautiful to behold, but don’t miss out on the captivating character of expressive cabernet sauvignons such as this one from Bodega Teho. Produced from a single vineyard in Altamira, part of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, you can expect a ripe character and serious structure, a mix of cassis, berry, plum with oak-derived spice and cedar notes. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.
Christopher Waters