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waters on wine

Turning the calendar to May comes with anticipation for sunshine and time spent in the fresh air, tending the garden and enjoying meals outside whenever possible.

To make the most of the change of pace, I’ve been bookmarking recipes that are delicious but require minimal effort. I’ve also been collecting appealing and (mostly) affordable wines that match the mood with easy-to-appreciate character, whether it’s just us or for when friends gather round the table. There is a cache of refreshing styles to sip in the shade and richer ones to pair with whatever is on the grill at the ready.

Some new favourites for al fresco entertaining recommended here include the savoury and satisfying Chianti Reserva from Uggiano Roccialta and Te Kahu, an opulent red blend from New Zealand’s Craggy Range.

Several longstanding summer staples are featured as well. I suspect I have applauded the freshness and verve of the latest releases of Babich Sauvignon Blanc, Château des Charmes Aligoté and François Lurton Les Fumées Blanches Sauvignon Blanc every summer for the past two decades. The familiarity of these appealing white wines adds to their allure. Like retro playlists and Panama hats, they have become bona fide summer staples.

Babich Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand), $19.95

Rating:88 /100

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Babich produces a rich and ripe style of Marlborough sauvignon blanc with intense tropical fruit (passionfruit, guava) balanced by bright citrus flavours that contribute to its zesty finish. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $20.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $23.99 in Saskatchewan, $20.99 in Manitoba, $25.19 in Nova Scotia.

Carpineto Chianti Classico 2021 (Italy), $22.95

Rating:90 /100

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This is a fragrant and complex model of Chianti Classico from an estate in Greve that is a consistent source of serious red wines built for the dinner table. A blend of sangiovese with canaiolo and other regional red grape varieties, you can expect concentrated cherry and berry fruit that gain interest from herbal and savoury notes. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $23.99 in Manitoba, $22.75 in Quebec, $26.99 in New Brunswick.

Cellier des Dauphins Prestige Rosé 2023 (France), $13.70

Rating:87 /100

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Cellier des Dauphins is a label produced by the Union of Côtes du Rhône winegrowers, a winemaking co-operative that includes more than 2,000 family vineyards in the southern Rhône Valley. The rosé is a blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault, which results in a refreshing yet reserved red berry and peppery character. It’s a dry, by-the-numbers style of rosé that’s agreeable but lacking the fruit and fragrance of better examples. Drink now. Available in Ontario.

Château des Charmes Aligoté 2021 (Canada), $15.95

Rating:88 /100

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Château des Charmes has been growing aligoté, a white wine grape native to Burgundy, in its Niagara-on-the-Lake vineyards since 1978. Its current release, from the 2021 vintage, comes in the expected refreshing style that makes it a great aperitif. A dry white with earthy, apple and citrus flavours, this is a serious house-wine candidate for spring and summer. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario ($14.95 until May 26) or direct, chateaudescharmes.com

Craggy Range Te Kahu 2021 (New Zealand), $32.95

Rating:91 /100

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Craggy Range produces this opulent red blend with cabernet, merlot and malbec grapes grown in its Gimblett Gravels Vineyard in Hawkes Bay. This is a rich and rewarding style, with a supple texture and generous dark fruit flavours enhanced by savoury and cedar notes. This is approachable and easy to appreciate, but has potential for aging thanks to its structure and acidity. Drink now to 2034. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $34.99 in Manitoba.

François Lurton Les Fumées Blanches Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (France), $17

Rating:88 /100

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Les Fumées Blanches refers to the morning mist that covers François Lurton’s estate in Gascony like white smoke; it’s not a reference to Fumé Blanc, a term often used for oak-aged sauvignon blanc. Aged in concrete, this is a dry, fruity white, with yellow apple and candied lemon flavours that contribute to its rich and round character. More complexity comes from herbal (lemongrass) and earthy (stoney and leesy) notes. Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $19.99 in Saskatchewan, $16.99 in Manitoba, $15.65 in Quebec, $18.99 in New Brunswick, $20.49 in Nova Scotia, $19.66 in Newfoundland.

La Copa Vermouth Rojo (Spain), $21.95

Rating:92 /100

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Produced by González Byass, La Copa is a sherry-based red vermouth with a bittersweet character influenced by botanicals including wormwood, clove and cinnamon. The style is fuller bodied and satisfying, with honeyed and spicy flavours suggesting orange liqueur, cloves and raisins. It’s suited for classic cocktails, such as a Manhattan or Negroni, or enjoying on its own served on the rocks or with soda water. Once opened, keep the bottle in the fridge for up to a month. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $24.35 in Quebec.

Luigi Bosca La Linda Malbec 2023 (Argentina), $13.95

Rating:88 /100

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Not to be confused with the winery’s premium Private Selection Old Vines available in many provinces, Luigi Bosca’s affordable La Linda Malbec label has a new look. Inside the bottle, you’ll find a spicy and oaky full-bodied take on malbec, with a core of dark fruit and a refreshing finish. Vegan. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario ($11.95 until May 26), various prices in Alberta.

Uggiano Roccialta Chianti Riserva 2020 (Italy), $17.95

Rating:90 /100

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Located in San Vincenzo a Torri, Uggiano produces a range of wines in Tuscany including this ripe and savoury Chianti Riserva. A blend of sangiovese with other local grapes, this displays juicy cherry flavours with leather, mushroom and oak notes that carry through to a lingering tangy finish. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.

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