The growing popularity of rosé means that consumers have more choices than ever as liquor stores stock up for summer. Pink wine is still viewed as a seasonal selection, with limited volumes added to shelves between June and August. Of course, there’s no reason why pink wines can’t be enjoyed all year round.
The category has expanded well beyond the “cheap and cheerful” camp. The number of premium examples continues to increase as wineries have started to farm grapes specifically for rosé production instead of using cast-offs from their conventional wine portfolio. The overarching style is dry and refreshing, with personalities ranging from structured and elegant to juicy and fruity expressions. Winemakers around the world employ a diverse assortment of grapes and a variety of techniques to achieve their desired effect.
Some of these new wave rosés have structure and complexity to develop with further aging in bottle, but the fresh, fruity character of most bottles is best enjoyed upon release. Extended aging will just dial down the intensity of flavour.
This week’s recommendations focus on 10 current rosé releases that stood out in recent tastings. They are made in a range of styles, in different parts of the world, from different grape varieties, to deliver a distinctive experience for wine lovers this summer and beyond.
Gérard Bertrand Gris Blanc 2021 (Canada), $16.95
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A revolutionary force in winemaking in the South of France, Gérand Bertrand produces around 20 different rosés, each vintage, including the popular Côtes de Roses label and Clos du Temple, one of the world’s most expensive pink wines (selling for more than $250 a bottle in Canada). Gris Blanc is a more affordable and enjoyable dry rosé made from different varieties of grenache grown in the south of France. The refreshing mix of citrus and cherry flavours are nicely balanced. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $15.60 in Quebec, $19.99 in New Brunswick, $20 in Nova Scotia (Bishop’s Cellar).
Henry of Pelham Rosé 2021 (Canada), $14.95
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Henry of Pelham was an early advocate for drier styles of rosé made from Ontario vineyards. This is the family-run winery’s largest production, most affordable pink wine which is produced from a blend of red wine varieties, such as cabernet franc, merlot and gamay. The finished wine is easy to appreciate, with juicy and well-defined cherry, berry and citrus flavours. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, henryofpelham.com ($12.95 until July 16), $15.99 in Manitoba, $17.15 in Quebec.
Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé 2022 (Canada), $24.95
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Small additions of viognier and chardonnay add pleasing aroma and texture to this pinot noir-based rosé from Ontario’s Hidden Bench. The grapes come from the winery’s organically certified vineyards in Beamsville and the wine was fermented and aged in older French oak barrels to develop more complexity and character. The resulting rosé is taut and juicy, with a wonderful balance between juicy fruit, spice and floral notes. Drink now to 2025. Available in Ontario.
L’Orangeraie Rosé 2021 (France), $16.05
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The Lorgeril family has ties to farming in the in Languedoc region of Southern France back to 1620, working with vineyards at higher elevations on the slopes of the Montagne Noire mountain range. Those sites benefit from cooler nighttime temperatures that help to preserve the fresh acidity in the grapes and the winemaking team makes a point of harvesting grenache and cinsault grapes early in the day to take advantage of those conditions. A well-made and typical example of affordable dry French rosé with restrained berry and citrus flavours. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia, $15.55 in Quebec.
M de Minuty Rosé 2022 (France), $29.95
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A stylish blend of grenache, syrah, cinsault and tiboren from the Côtes de Provence, Minuty’s large-production M label makes the most of its pretty and perfumed character. The flavours are combination of fruity and savoury notes, with nice texture and tension to make for a refreshing and soothing style that’s textbook Provence. Drink now to 2024. Available at the above price in Ontario and Quebec, $36.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Mayhem Rosé 2022 (Canada), $20.97
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Made with merlot grapes grown in Ryegrass Road Vineyard in Oliver, B.C., this fruity and flavourful rosé has a small addition (9 per cent) of barrel-aged wine to contribute texture and character. The mix of strawberry and rhubarb flavours gain interest from subtle spice and floral notes. Drink now. Available direct, mayhemwines.com.
Sandhill Rosé 2022 (Canada), $21.99
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Sandhill continues to expand its production of rosé in British Columbia. The 2022 vintage of its popular white-label rosé blends merlot, gamay noir, syrah, petite verdot and viognier grapes harvested from vineyards in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. The result is a smooth and flavourful pink wine with crowdpleasing cherry, berry and melon flavours. Drink now. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $22 direct, sandhillwines.ca, various prices in Alberta.
Stratus Cabernet Franc Rosé 2022 (Canada), $32
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Stratus has a new approach to rosé production as it moves away from big and bold styles, made by blending a multitude of barrel-aged grape varieties, in favour of fresher single-grape expressions. In 2022, the winemaking team produced a gamay rosé and this cabernet franc rosé from grapes grown on its Niagara-on-the-Lake estate. This a pure and satisfying rosé that captures the essence of the grape variety, with an attractive core of currant, berry and cherry fruit flavours and subtle red pepper and herbal notes. A silky texture and fuller-bodied adds to the enjoyment. Drink now to 2026. Available direct, stratuswines.com.
Tantalus Rosé 2022 (Canada), $25.99
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Tantalus uses pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes grown on their Kelowna estate vineyards for the 2022 edition of its juicy and complex rosé. The pale wine offers a mix of berry, citrus, and apple that are nicely layered and contribute to the clean and refreshing character. Drink now to 2025. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $23.48 direct, tantalus.ca, various prices in Alberta.
Underwood Artist Series Rosé 2022 (United States), $22.95
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This Artist Series rosé is a dry and flavourful rosé from Oregon that combines several white wine varieties, notably pinot gris, muscat and riesling, with pinot noir for a pink wine with abundant floral, peach and tropical fruit notes. The style is dry and easy-going. It is vegan friendly. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Christopher Waters