On the cheeseboard, as a gourmet gratin or simply when you have a craving, turn to Lankaaster.
Its refined flavour will impress the connoisseur while remaining versatile enough to become a staple in your cheese drawer. Cheese maker Margaret Morris sums up its flavour experience as "grassy and sweet with a buttery note on the back end."
The smooth, supple mouth feel adds to its addictive appeal. Its mellow nature will become more intense as it ripens, but will not have the sharpness you would find in an aged cheddar. This new gouda-style cheese from Glengarry Cheesemaking and Dairy Supply Ltd. in Lancaster, Ont., was three years in the making. It is based on the traditional boerderij kaas (farm cheese) from the Netherlands. The name "Lankaaster" cleverly references the Dutch language and the cheese's hometown.
Ms. Morris takes cheese making seriously. She has a background in food science and agriculture and has studied cheese making in Holland, England and France. Ms. Morris also holds classes for amateur and professional cheese makers. Her expert touch helped influence the rich flavours of the well-loved, washed-rind cheese known as Niagara Gold.
Developing the Lankaaster took many batches of cheese and much trial and error. Ms. Morris jokes that "our mistakes are good mistakes," adding, "sometimes we're like artists - we do another batch and it's not what we wanted so we christen it with another name and it's a new cheese." The number of cheeses made at Glengarry fluctuates as they experiment. It currently holds at seven.
Lankaaster is a "washed-curd" cheese. During cheese making the whey is drained off the curds, which are then are bathed in water. This closes the pores on the curds and helps keep moisture in. Washed-curd cheeses have a somewhat pliable texture. Removing the whey also takes out lactose, slowing down fermentation and lowering acidity, which makes for a less sharp cheese. Slower ripening also allows for greater finesse in the flavour.
And the practical thing about keeping Lankaaster in the cheese drawer has to do with its unique appearance. It's square "loaf" shape and size makes it a snap to slice and insert in a sandwich. If you manage to get that far. A few slices of Lankaaster with some crisp, just-rinsed grapes, eaten while leaning against the kitchen counter, might be the best combination of all.
Sue Riedl studied at the Cordon Bleu in London.
***
On the block
Cheese Lankaaster
Origin Lancaster, Ont.
Producer Glengarry Cheesemaking and Dairy Supply Ltd.
Owner Margaret Morris
Cheese makers Margaret Morris, Wilma Klein-Swormink, Marie-Bénédict Pretty
Milk Pasteurized cow's
Type Firm, washed curd, pressed, wax rind
Flavours Plain, cumin, onion and garlic, chive and chili
Shape 2.75 kilogram loaf
Notes For information on cheese-making courses visit www.GlengarryCheesemaking.on.ca
Distributor Provincial Fine Foods and Wendy's Mobile Market (catering)
Availability Only available in Ontario
Toronto: Culinarium, Whole Foods Market, La Fromagerie, Pusateri's
Oakville: Whole Foods Market
Kitchener: Vincenzo's
Guelph: Chartelli Fine Cheeses
Sue Riedl