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You know that dinnertime lull, after the soup plates have been cleared and the hostess is madly putting the finishing touches to the main course?

It's the perfect time to take a little break before the serious eating begins, to revive guests' appetites for the feast to come. It's the time for the classic French libation known as le trou Normand.

Traditionally, this consists of a hefty shot of Calvados, a potent apple liqueur from Normandy, served between courses of a particularly heavy meal. Its bracing qualities were believed to literally create a hole (or trou) inside one's stomach to make room for the remaining dishes. One thing's certain: It will liven up the party.

Ottawa author and hostess Margaret Dickson has revived the tradition -- and given it a contemporary flair. In her new book, Margaret's Table: Easy Cooking & Inspiring Entertaining, Dickenson suggests serving a trou Normand to add a little ceremony to the table. "The guests really adore it," she says.

"It also lets me get back to the kitchen and get the main course going," adds the veteran hostess, who honed her skills during her many years as a Canadian Foreign Service spouse.

To Dickenson, presentation is everything. She serves a small amount of Calvados in a glass set on a liner on a plate, and tops each glass with a single dried apple slice. If there are children at the table, they are served apple juice in the same manner.

It's a simple way to flesh out a three-course meal, Dickenson says. She urges hostesses to take liberties with the tradition.

"I like to mix a little rosemary and cinnamon into lime sherbet and serve it as a sorbet," she says.

One of her favourite trou Normands involves mixing pomegranate seeds with a cinnamon-flavoured liqueur such as Goldschlager and a pinch of lime juice. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight to allow the flavours to mingle, and serve in liqueur glasses garnished with cinnamon sticks.

Sounds like the perfect way to make room for a big serving of turkey and dressing.

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